Even the most experienced photographer can sometimes use pre-programmed modes to focus on the shot rather than calculating the exposure and never miss a chance to get a great shot. But if you're new to photography or want to expand your skills beyond Auto mode, then start by leaving the green square area.
When you set up your camera to take a picture, there are four main outcomes to choose from: deep DOF, shallow DOF, motion blur, or motion freeze. How do you know which modes to use to get the desired result in your photo? Let's see.
Auto (Green square)
In Auto mode, your camera will automatically set the shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance, and even the built-in flash for you.
Pros: This is a great option for beginners - but don't get addicted to it! Use it only until you learn how to set up the camera yourself.
Disadvantages: under certain lighting conditions, automatic settings can lead to undesirable results. For example, a backlit portrait will only show the silhouette. In low light conditions, the image may appear blurry and grainy; the camera can also choose to use the built-in flash to add some light, and many camera models do not have a flash off feature if you don't want to use it.
When to use: Every time you use your camera as a compact, this is your mode.
This portrait was deliberately taken with the sun set to Auto. The camera did a decent job of setting the exposure, but the shot is still 1/2 stop underexposed. Settings auto exposure such: excerpt 1/250 sec., diaphragmf/6.3, ISO 100.If a excerpt andISOacceptable, then diaphragm can It was would decrease and do background less distracting.
Program mode(P)
In Program mode, your camera will automatically set your shutter speed and aperture, but will let you select ISO, white balance, exposure compensation, and flash.
Advantages: This is a great next step for a beginner who wants to have a little more control over their camera and improve their photos.
Flaws: as in Auto mode, certain conditions lighting can produce unpredictable results due to partially automatic settings that sometimes leave results to chance.
When to use: Use this mode if you want to take a step towards full control over camera settings.
A priority excerpts(TV - Canon) (S - Nikon)
In Shutter Priority mode, you choose your shutter speed and ISO and the camera will automatically set the appropriate aperture for the correct exposure.
Advantages: Great for capturing frozen action and motion blur of moving objects.
Flaws: In this mode, you control the shutter speed, so be careful what aperture the camera chooses for the correct exposure. It also matters what lens you use. Some cameras can shoot at very fast shutter speeds, but if the lens doesn't have a large enough aperture, the image will be underexposed. For example, if you're shooting at 1/4000 sec and the correct exposure requires f/2.8, but your lens maximizes it at f/3.5, the image will be underexposed.
When to use: Use this mode when you need to control the movement of the subject you are photographing. Use a fast shutter speed if you want to capture motion, or a slow shutter speed if you want to blur motion. This mode is also useful when using large mm lenses when you need to set a fast shutter speed to prevent camera shake from blurring the image.
Shutter priority was used with a shutter speed of 1/8 sec to blur the fast moving water.
Freezing very fast movement- 1/3000 sec.
Athletes on the move– from 1/500 to 1/1000 sec.
Birds in flight– from 1/1000 to 1/2000 sec.
Walking people- 1/250 sec.
Panning moving objects– 1/30 to 1/125 sec.
Blurring of fast moving water- 1/8 sec.
Blurring of slow moving water- 1/2 sec.
aperture priority (AV – Canon) (A – Nikon)
In Aperture Priority mode, you choose the aperture and ISO and the camera will automatically set the appropriate shutter speed for the correct exposure.
Advantages: Aside from Manual (next paragraph), Aperture Priority is the most popular mode among photographers, mainly because it gives you control over what is in focus and what isn't. And in most cases, the element that is in focus makes the photo successful or doomed to failure.
Flaws: in conditions poor lighting, the camera may select a very slow shutter speed, resulting in image blur due to both subject movement and camera shake.
When to use: Use this mode when you want to control the depth of field of your image. The larger the aperture, the more light will hit the camera sensor and the shallower the depth of field will be. Conversely, the smaller the aperture, the less light will hit the sensor, and the greater the depth of field. Keep in mind that changing the aperture will affect the shutter speed. More light from a large aperture will result in a fast shutter speed, and less light from a small aperture will result in a slow shutter speed.
Set to Aperture Priority to increase depth of field.
landscapes- f/8 or higher for greater depth of field
portraits– large aperture (f/2.8) for shallow depth of field and blurry background
Macro- f/8 or higher for greater depth of field
Manual mode (M)
Manual mode allows you to change both shutter speed and aperture independently of each other. The camera does nothing automatic settings. Your camera's built-in exposure meter will tell you which exposure is right, but you can have full control over the shutter speed and aperture settings individually to get the exposure that's right for the shot you want. Before using manual mode, it's a good idea to become familiar with the exposure triangle (shutter speed, aperture, and ISO) and how they will affect the image.
Advantages: This mode gives you full control over the image you create.
Flaws: While this mode gives you a lot of creative options, you should be careful to check the exposure of each image at all times, especially under rapidly changing lighting conditions.
When to use: After you learn how to use this mode, its effects and settings results, and how they work together, you will use this mode almost always.
In Manual mode, a small aperture was used to control the depth of field and a slow shutter speed was used to blur the movement of the water.
Mode Scenes
Scene Mode is very similar to Auto. You select a scene, and the camera sets the optimal settings for a given scenario. Different camera models may have different Scenes, but the ones listed here are the most popular:
Sport- The camera will increase the ISO and use a fast shutter speed to capture motion.
Landscape– the camera uses a small aperture to maximize the depth of field; the flash can also be disabled.
Portrait- The camera will use a large aperture to keep the background out of focus. Some camera models use face detection in this mode.
Macro- The camera will select a small aperture to give as much depth of field as possible.
Advantages: Like Program, this Scene mode is primarily a starting point for beginners and usually produces better results than shooting in Auto mode.
Flaws: These settings usually give the desired result, but sometimes it can be different and unreliable.
When to use: Scene mode can be the next step for beginners after Auto mode, use it as a starting point to learn how your camera works and improve your photography skills.
So which mode the best?
Which mode to use is up to you. But if you choose Auto, Scene, or Program modes and want to improve your photos, learn how to set the correct exposure based on shutter speed, aperture, and ISO; it will help you to do correct settings and create nice photos. For professional photographers, the two most popular modes are Manual and Aperture Priority. But remember that professionals were once beginners too. So enjoy your photography experience no matter which mode you choose!
It would seem that quite recently, only twenty years ago, photography was considered a matter of the elite. Not every inhabitant of the USSR could afford to have a FED, not to mention a Zenith mirror or a cool foreign camera, for example, the German Practice. Nowadays, photography has become accessible to almost everyone and therefore a very popular activity. There are cameras in almost every family. And if there is no camera as such, then almost every one of us has it built into the mobile phone.
For about four years now, manufacturers of photographic equipment, releasing more and more new models of professional cameras, began to actively develop and produce SLR cameras aimed specifically at beginner amateur photographers. With such cameras, even an amateur can take decent quality photos. And this, of course, inspires beginners, gives them an incentive for creative search, and, of course, the growth of their skills. Thus, they “sit down” on branded photographic equipment.
What separates beginner cameras from professional cameras? First of all, it is the simplicity of their design and high functionality. Beginner cameras usually have several modes that allow the photographer to easily shoot, for example, a child in motion or a portrait, photograph sports, or simply shoot in a city at night, etc. All of these modes usually work automatically. Each of them is set up for some kind of shooting and programmed.
The current cameras are very perfect, they are simply crammed with all sorts of technological innovations. But the functions of digital cameras of the previous generation, manufacturers and designers, nevertheless, retained them. Almost all digital SLR cameras operate in four modes:
- P - automatic program mode
- A - aperture priority mode
- S - shutter priority mode
- M - manual mode
Let's look at each of these modes separately.
Auto mode P (programmed)
If you set your camera to automatic program mode, denoted by the P symbol, you won't have to adjust anything else when shooting. Your camera will set the shutter speed and aperture automatically. It is good to use the M mode when the photographer does not have the opportunity to set all the parameters on the camera separately and turn on the built-in flash on his own during work (when shooting a photo essay, for example). Very handy here is that the automatic program mode allows the photographer to adjust the ratio of shutter speed and aperture manually, while still getting the same exposure.
If, when shooting, there are conflicts with the existing exposure parameters and the preset ones (underexposure or overexposure), the camera's automation fixes these problems and informs you about them with an inscription in the viewfinder or display field of view. By the way, this function is provided for all operating modes of a modern camera.
A - aperture priority
When switching to work in this mode, which is indicated by the symbol A on the camera, you will have to adjust the aperture manually, on your own. And in order for the exposure of the frame to be optimal, the shutter speed for obtaining it will be selected by the camera's automatics independently.
In order to increase or decrease the depth of field, you need to decrease or increase the aperture of the lens. The narrower this hole (that is, the number indicating the aperture is larger), the greater the depth of field will be, and vice versa - the larger aperture (wider), the smaller the depth of field.
This mode, aperture priority mode, is perhaps the most popular and common among photographers. The point here is that the depth of the sharply depicted space is most often the most important, relevant moment in the work. Professionals set the aperture in the first place when shooting. No matter how important other parameters are, they are already adjusted depending on the aperture. So why should we puzzle over this? Let's entrust this matter to the automation of the camera.
Accurate and correct installation Apertures are perhaps the most important component when working in various photographic genres. But it is especially important when shooting portraits and macro photography. Aperture is given a lot of attention in these genres of photography.
Those who have been taking pictures for a long time should be well aware that the aperture of each lens has its own parameters. With some of its values, the photo turns out worse, with others - better. But, usually, in order to get a good picture, photographers work at an aperture of f 11 or f 16. If you set the aperture between f 5 - f 22, you can also get a good quality photo.
S - shutter priority
If you set your camera to shutter-priority mode, which is indicated by the S icon, when shooting, you yourself will have to set the shutter speed, that is, the shutter speed of your camera. All other parameters will be set automatically by your camera. In shutter priority mode, people usually take pictures when they have to shoot dynamic shots, objects in motion, when the photographer needs to emphasize this movement in some way. As you know, when shooting moving objects on long exposure, in the picture they are blurry. A short shutter speed, as it were, "freezes" such objects, makes the action taking place in the frame instantaneous. So, for example, it is good to shoot an athlete in a high jump. You have a chance to capture in the frame exactly the moment when he touches the bar with his foot and it starts to fall down. And the athlete has a grimace of failure on his face ...
In shutter priority mode, as a rule, they are removed if there is active movement in the frame. For example, sports competitions, some kind of stage performance, festive fireworks, moving vehicles and much more.
When shooting in shutter priority mode, the photographer may experience some problems and difficulties, since working in it has its own specific characteristics. The main difficulty, the main “pitfall” here is the shutter speed and aperture value. In some cases, there may be a conflict between their values due to the fact that they will not match. Simply put, if you set a certain shutter speed on the camera, in order for the exposure to be ideal, the camera's automatics will not be able to select the exact appropriate aperture value. Sometimes this conflict can be resolved by selecting a different shutter speed value, which is located nearby. Set the shutter speed a little faster or a little slower. But then the frame may turn out to be underexposed or overexposed.
If you need to get a sharp frame when shooting handheld, then the shutter speed is calculated using a simple formula: 1/X, where X is the focal length of your lens. Simply put, the shutter speed should be no longer than 1/X. Provided that you have to shoot for more slow speed shutter, you will need to use a tripod to shoot. Telephoto lenses shooting handheld is much more difficult, there is a chance to get a blurry image.
M - manual mode
When shooting in this mode, which is marked with the M symbol on the camera, the photographer himself sets the value of both shutter speed and aperture. In M mode, these parameters are adjusted according to your own vision, while controlling underexposure and overexposure indicators (it is good to track them on the metering sensor built into the camera). Simply put, you can adjust all the necessary shooting parameters even before you start photographing. The main thing - do not forget to follow the exposure meter sensor.
The manual mode of the camera gives the photographer an excellent opportunity to open the camera shutter for almost any desired length of time. To do this, you can use the bulb mode. But it is needed quite rarely, when the shutter speed should be more than 30 seconds. For example, if you shoot a meteorite falling in the sky, or lightning.
And in manual mode, they usually shoot in the studio. After the desired light is set, the exposure on the camera is not set at random, but based on the results of its measurement with a special device called a light meter, and then this value is entered into the camera manually.
How to make exposure compensation
Exposure compensation should be done in cases where the exposure needs to be quickly, in the course of work, changed in one direction or the other, without changing all the other camera settings. Exposure compensation gives the photographer the opportunity to independently adjust the shooting parameters suggested by the camera's automation. In each of the modes described earlier in this article, exposure compensation will change certain values. The most important thing here is that in this case, the value that is not the priority in the mode you have chosen will change. Well, for example, if you shoot in aperture priority mode, then in order to achieve the exposure you need in the picture, the camera's automatic will change the shutter speed. When shooting in aperture priority mode, the camera will automatically change the shutter speed value. If you make exposure compensation in fully automatic mode, P mode, then your camera will change the ISO value, that is, the value of the ISO number.
Exposure bracketing
When creating HDR photos, you need to set the camera to different exposure values. In this case, the settings can go both in the direction of increasing the exposure, and in the direction of its decrease. For such shooting, it is good to use exposure bracketing. Bracketing mode gives the photographer the opportunity to simultaneously take several pictures that differ from each other only in exposure parameters. The parameters and the number of shots must be set individually and done in such a way that the spread in exposure was convenient for you.
Auto exposure lock
In case you have to photograph a subject outside the center-weighted or spot metering exposure, your frame may turn out to be of poor quality due to the fact that it is incorrectly exposed. In this case, we recommend that you turn off automatic exposure by first exposing the frame to its main subject.
Results
If you take into account our tips and recommendations set out in this article and take them into account in your work, you can quickly learn how to take pictures with a modern SLR camera, not trusting the automation, but taking control of all the settings for shooting parameters into your own hands. . We assure you, there is nothing particularly difficult in this. You just need to practice for a while. As the old masters of photography say, the one who takes a lot of pictures takes good pictures.
We wish you good luck in your work and creative success!
Each camera has a bunch of modes, so you look at them and don’t understand anything, but you want to understand something ...? If - "YES", then I will try to introduce them to you as simply and interestingly as possible. Well, if “no”, then pick up the instructions (although it will not help you much).
I want to say in advance that the camera has 4 main modes and a favorite “Auto” mode (expensive professional DSLRs have only 4 main modes). Of course, you will tell me now, but what about my favorite night mode or portrait, or some other that you use so often. But no way, this is just a husk, which is done mainly for those who understand little about the camera, and often do it quite poorly, the highlight is the modes P, S, A, M.
The first and most popular mode, which is used by 70% of people, is the mode codenamed Auto, or auto whoever is more comfortable. A mode for those who don’t particularly bother with what they can do, just press the button and that’s it. In many cases, this is correct, I'm talking about those situations if you don't understand anything about your camera at all, or you just bought it, etc. But sooner or later, I hope, you will get tired of constantly popping up flash (if you accidentally forgot to turn it off), or you will just want to find out what more your camera is capable of. If you choose the path - “do not bathe”, by the way, which is also quite likely, then well, you can stop reading this topic at this very place.
We go further, very close and dear to the regime Auto- mode "P"(programmed automatic mode). In this mode, the camera automatically selects the required and by default. You can control this ratio, if possible, of course (in low light, you won't be able to fix anything). This mode already makes you think about what you are doing, therefore, for those who take pictures back in Auto I advise you to urgently switch to the regime "R", it won’t get worse, but it’s better - I hope!
Mode, which is indicated by a Latin letter "S"(priority mode). This mode you need to know when to use it, it is intended, judging by its name, to control your shutter speed, it is. You control and the camera sets automatically, depending on the selected shutter speed. This mode is useful if you are not satisfied with the shutter speed that the camera imposes on you. For example, if you are shooting handheld in a dark room and don't want to blur the frame, you can set the shutter speed you need using the mode "S".
Mode "BUT"(priority mode).
This mode is the exact opposite of the previous one. Those. in this mode, you set the value and the camera controls automatically. As for me, this is the most convenient mode, 90% of all the photos that I photograph are taken in this mode! Why, yes, because controlling the aperture is much easier than controlling everything, or controlling the shutter speed! For example, you are photographing a portrait of a person, in mode "BUT" quickly set the one you need, and then you want to photograph the landscape, without switching anything you just change the aperture value. Simple, comfortable? Yes!"M"(manual) or manual mode. You have to set both the shutter speed and the aperture, and still control the . My advice to you, if you hear from someone - take pictures only in mode "M" and you will be a cool photographer, run away from this person, this mode should be used extremely rarely, and in certain situations, for example, if you (I still take pictures in it when I attach old Soviet lenses to the camera, but not because I want to but because there is no other way). Why am I so negative about this, because I have met very, well, very few people (or rather, I have not met any) who can do it faster and better than a professional DSLR, in which the developers have invested all their experience , and not small. Yes, you can choose the parameters you need, while spending a lot of time on it, do you need it? You have a SLR camera in your hands, you are in the 21st century, if you want thrills - pick up a film camera, exposure meter and take pictures the way my father did, who took pictures on film for 20 years, developed it and took it during sleepless nights Photo.
Bonus: “video” mode, everything seems so clear, rejoice those who have it, and rejoice even more those who do not have it! Although sometimes, very rarely, I regret that I don’t have it on my cameras.
No matter how long you have your digital camera there is always something to learn. And if you've just bought your first DSLR, the learning curve can seem incredibly daunting.
But this should not scare you and discourage you from working. In this article, we'll help you get the most out of your DSLR by explaining some of the key features found on almost every model.
Learning camera functions and controls early on in your exposure to photography will help you avoid some common mistakes, which will make your photos look better and more beautiful.
Front panel of the camera body
1. Red-eye reduction lamp
To prevent red-eye from appearing in the frame, you need a light source that will compensate for the glare from the flash. This lamp is such a light source. The lamp also acts as a handy self-timer countdown indicator.
2. Focus ring
In auto focus mode, this ring rotates until the camera focuses on the subject. In manual focus mode, you can turn the ring yourself and focus on the desired shooting point.
3. Zoom ring
Rotate the ring clockwise to zoom out and get a wide angle shot. Turning the ring counterclockwise will bring the subject closer and give you a close-up of the subject.
4. Flash button
When shooting in semi-automatic or manual mode, you have the option to turn on the built-in flash. To do this, click this button.
5. Focus mode switch
Here you can set the AF (autofocus) mode if you want the camera to focus on its own. You can also switch to MF (manual focus) mode, in which case you will control the focus yourself. In manual focus mode, you can use the autofocus points in the viewfinder to tell you exactly what your camera is concentrating on.
6. Image stabilization switch
IS (Image Stabilizer) lenses are designed to prevent blur caused by camera shake (especially noticeable when you focus on a distant subject). Nikon lenses have a similar VR (vibration reduction) switch.
7.Built-in microphone
Most cameras like the Canon 500D (pictured above) can now record video. Audio for these videos is recorded through the built-in microphone.
8. Depth of field and preview button
By clicking on this button, you can see what your frame will look like with these settings.
Rear panel of the camera body
1. Exposure compensation button
In. While in manual mode, hold down this button and rotate the main command dial to open or close the aperture.
2. Focus point selection
Press this button and then rotate the channel selector to select the camera's AF point to use.
3. Exposure lock button
This button allows you to lock the exposure. You can also use it to zoom out when viewing a picture on the LCD monitor in playback mode. It also allows you to focus the camera when using Live View.
4. Live view
Click here to see what the camera will capture on the LCD screen. The newest cameras have a Live View feature that eliminates the need to view the scene through the viewfinder.
5. Four control buttons
These buttons allow you to navigate through the camera's menus and submenus. Also, each button allows you to get into a specific settings menu. Thus, the buttons provide quick access to popular functions such as WB (white balance) or AF (autofocus).
6. Self-timer
This button allows you to change the shooting mode on the camera and set the timer shooting.
7. Play button
The play button allows you to view the pictures you have taken.
8. Delete button
Button with universal symbol trash can allows you to delete files that you, while viewing on the display, decide to get rid of.
9. Menu button
Pressing this button will give you access to a wide range of menus and submenus where you can change the settings to suit your requirements.
Top panel of the camera
1. Built-in flash
When you're shooting in low light, the built-in flash can help you get a decent shot. In some modes, you will need to turn it on manually. In scene modes, the flash fires automatically.
2. Shutter button
This button is required to take a picture. By pressing the button halfway, you will be able to focus, or activate auto focus. When fully pressed, the camera will take a picture.
3. Main dial
Rotating this dial allows you to manually set the camera's aperture or shutter speed.
4.ISO button
By pressing this button you can adjust the ISO sensitivity. You can then use the main command dial to increase or decrease the ISO level. You also have the option to set the ISO manually using the appropriate menu item.
5. On/off button
This will allow you to turn off the camera when not in use (although it will automatically go to sleep after 30 seconds of inactivity).
6. Mode dial
On the mode dial, you can set the desired shooting mode. The disc contains all possible scene modes, semi-automatic and manual mode.
7. Hot shoe
Using a SLR camera, you will have the opportunity to install a flash as an additional light source. An external flash is usually more powerful and easier to control.
Top Reasons to Buy a Universal 35mm Lens
The history of luxury 35mm lens goes back to the early days of photography. This is one of the best lenses ever made, with a brilliant focal length that can be applied to any photograph. Whether on a full frame or cropped camera, this lens has its own added value.
35mm optics dominate not only in the world of photography, but also in cinema. In the days of film cameras, "35mm" was the width of the film used. Later, this format was adapted for photography and has not lost popularity since then.
During the First World War, 35 mm was widely used in Leica cameras, which were mainly used for outstanding military shots.
And now, let's look at the various factors that speak in favor of this lens.
Why is a 35mm lens useful?
In this article, we list the top reasons why you should get a 35mm lens if you don't already have one:
· This is ideal for shooting while walking, if you want to photograph everything you see.
· It is much more versatile than any other optic option. It also outperforms the 50mm lens as you get a wider and more varied perspective with it.
This type of optics gives a fairly wide-angle coverage for full frame, as well as on a camera with a "cropped" matrix.
· At f/1.4, this lens is the fastest lens in its category and lets in a lot of light when wide open. Therefore, it is good when shooting in difficult conditions with insufficient lighting.
· The 35mm focal length draws you in to your subject. Therefore, it is suitable for both street photography and portrait photography, when the subject becomes especially important.
· This lens can be enough for you to shoot landscapes.
· With this lens, you can get close to your subject as the minimum focus distance is much shorter than other lenses with a focal length range above 35mm.
· It is a miniature lens with a low weight, which means it will not burden you too much, and you can almost always take it with you.
· Such a lens, as a rule, is the most frequently used and quickly self-sustaining.
· With an aperture of f/1.4, it allows you to create excellent portraits with wonderful bokeh.
· Has a large maximum aperture, is sold at an inexpensive price and has a multi-purpose application.
5 things you should know about SLR cameras
Buying a camera the most important choice for every photographer. This article provides 5 criteria to help you choose the camera that is right for you. It will be about the resolution of the matrix, shooting modes, user interface, and much more that you should know when choosing.
The world of photography has rediscovered itself with the advent of digital technologies. Gone are the days when only the elite could do photography, people with big money. Now almost everyone can afford to buy a camera.
You can talk a lot about convenience compact cameras, but for optimal image quality, and limitless creative possibilities, only a real semi or professional camera will do.
The rise in popularity and affordability of SLR cameras is fueling fierce competition among major camera manufacturers such as Canon, Nikon, Pentax and Sony.
This state of affairs is extremely beneficial for consumers, as camera manufacturers strive to constantly improve their product by introducing new features into cameras. innovative features, increasing their performance and improving image quality, while making DSLRs easier to use. But what are the key factors to consider when choosing a camera? This is what we will talk about today.
Benefits of SLR cameras
The advantages of DSLRs over more compact cameras are numerous and varied - first of all, this is the size of the image sensor. Many compact cameras may have the same or even more megapixels than a DSLR, but resolution per se is not key factor affecting image quality, and don't forget about it!
Image sensors in DSLRs are physically larger than in compact cameras, and this makes a significant difference in image quality. First, a larger sensor means more pixels, which individually capture more light. This, in turn, greatly reduces the digital image noise and graininess that can occur when shooting at high ISO speeds.
Secondly, the larger sensor allows for shallower depth of field, which means you can get beautiful bokeh and nice background blur that will look great in macro photography and portraits.
Another important advantage is that the DSLR allows you to see the world through the lens as it will later be in the picture.
Ideal Camera
A DSLR is more comfortable to use, manual zoom and focus rings on the lens allow you to focus with much greater accuracy and get the shot you were aiming for.
In addition, when you buy a SLR camera, you open up a whole world of possibilities and discoveries, you get a whole system. You will have the opportunity to buy and change lenses, and various accessories that will make the creative process more enjoyable and productive. On the other hand, when buying a compact, you limit yourself to only one camera, which in a year, at most, will not be enough for you.
Today we will dwell in more detail on the main fundamental differences between different types of SLR and compact cameras, as a result of which, you can make right choice, depending on the type of camera you want to purchase.
Body design and new features of SLR cameras.
Most DSLRs are built on the basis of their predecessors, but unlike previous models, the new models offer many innovative improvements.
Shooting modes
All DSLRs generally have the usual set of modes, which includes auto, manual, aperture priority, shutter priority, and modes appropriate for different types of scene. The so-called scene modes are found on cameras designed specifically for beginners, such as cameras Canon EOS 60D and Nikon D3100. The same modes exist on compact cameras. Mode selection most often occurs through the wheel on the top of the camera.
LCD display
The LCD display is important not only for menu access, digital camera, it is also the main way to view the footage, to check the accuracy and sharpness of the frame.
Relatively inexpensive cameras such as the Canon EOS 1100D often have a low LCD resolution of around 230K pixels, while high end models such as the Canon EOS 60D can have a resolution of 1,040,000 pixels.
Mirror
The main difference between a DSLR and a compact is that a DSLR has a mirror assembly that reflects the image from the lens up into the optical viewfinder, allowing you to see a very precise focus and zoom position.
autofocus
More autofocus points allow you to focus on the subject as accurately as possible, while such cameras have several points that allow you to track randomly moving objects in continuous autofocus mode.
Inexpensive models of SLR cameras usually have nine or eleven autofocus points, while more sophisticated models have more autofocus points. For example, the Nikon D800 has 51 focus points.
ISO sensitivity
Sensitivity has improved significantly with many DSLRs in recent times. The maximum ISO level has been increased, which means that you can now photograph in low light conditions much more productively. Increasing the ISO makes the sensor more sensitive to light, which allows the camera to capture even the weakest Sun rays without having to use slow shutter speeds.
The higher the ISO value you use, the higher the sensitivity, but as the sensitivity increases, the level of digital noise increases. Older models like the Canon EOS 1000D typically top out at 1600 ISO, while modern models like the Canon EOS 1100D offer much higher ISO speeds, around 6400 in the standard range, expandable to 12800 ISO.
Professional full-frame models such as the Nikon D4 allow you to shoot at up to ISO 24,800. Improved sensors, combined with advanced image processors, make it possible to take great photos with little noise, even at high ISO settings.
Number of megapixels
The number of megapixels is often the first criterion that not very experienced amateur photographers pay attention to when purchasing their camera. In fact, resolution does not play the first role in choosing a camera.
What resolution is desired? The first SLR cameras were equipped with matrices with a resolution of about 6 megapixels. This seems to be an extremely low resolution compared to today's standards, but even this was enough to get decent A3 photos.
To date, the smallest resolution among DSLRs is equipped with a matrix with a resolution of 12.1 megapixels. Nikon, in particular, is pushing the boundaries among DSLRs entry level For example, the Nikon D3200 boasts a class-leading 24.2MP resolution, while its latest full-frame model, the D800, has a 36.3MP sensor.
A few years ago, Canon had cameras with the highest resolution, but now the company is playing catch-up with other companies, cameras with APS-C sensors have a resolution of 12.2 megapixels. (for 1100D) up to 18 MPix. (in the 600D, 60D and 7D), the full-frame camera is equipped with a 16.1 megapixel sensor (in the 1D Mk IV), as well as 22.3 megapixels. (for the new 5D Mk III).
However, Nikon's flagship D4 full-frame DSLR costs around £5,000 and has a resolution of "only" 16.6 megapixels.
creative cropping
Higher resolution images allow you to crop the image as much as you like. For example, if with a telescopic zoom, you didn’t get the object as large as you wanted, having a camera with a high resolution matrix, you can crop your picture without losing quality, thereby bringing the object closer.
AT this case, another problem may arise, this is the quality of the optics. If the quality of the camera lens is not high enough, you risk getting chromatic aberration (color fringing) in your image.
File sizes
The high resolution of the photos speaks of the large weight of the images, especially if you are photographing in RAW format. For example, RAW images taken with the EOS 600D or 7D can be around 25MB, while an image of the same format taken with the Nikon D90 and D300S will be around 10MB.
This means not only that your memory card will fill up faster, but also that the camera may run more slowly when shooting continuously.
Noise level
Very often, camera manufacturers supply their camera with a high-resolution sensor, while the physical dimensions of the sensor are insufficient, as a result of which the matrix does not capture much light, and grain appears. Especially strongly, noise begins to appear when shooting at high ISO values.
By developing the latest sensors and image processors, manufacturers strive to minimize noise levels.
Capturing video with a camera
Until recently, video recording was only available on compact cameras. With the advent of Live View, which allows you to take pictures using the LCD rather than through the viewfinder, means more and more DSLRs boast high definition (HD) and video capabilities.
Evolution
The functionality of the first SLR cameras was quite narrow. Video recording, in general, initially appeared on more professional models such as the Canon EOS 5D Mark II, and only over time began to appear on the entry-level Nikon D3200 and Canon EOS 650D models.
Considering how quickly video recording capabilities have evolved among other companies, Sony has lagged a little behind in terms of the level of its cameras, precisely in this parameter. But models like the A580 and SLT A55 propelled the firm to new level and now, Sony products can compete not only in image quality, but also in video quality.
HD formats
The improvement of DSLRs keeps up with the times, so cameras released a year or two ago, as a rule, offer high quality videos and 720p resolution. The 720p format is progressive, that is, each frame is created through one pass.
By comparison, at 720i (interlaced), a frame is created by scanning two alternating lines (half-frames). The latest cameras are usually capable of recording Full HD high-definition video at 1080p resolution.
Frame frequency
A range of frame rates, including 24, 25, 30 and 50fps (frames per second), allows you to create video files that are as good as those created on a camcorder. The video quality can meet the standards of film and television around the world.
This is becoming especially important as DSLRs are increasingly being used to shoot professional video for TV commercials and video clips. Considering that the size of the sensor increases, which means that background blur becomes more noticeable, then operators can achieve excellent depth of field in their videos.
sharpness
One of the main problems that arise when recording video on SLR cameras is autofocus. To create the clearest possible video, good tracking autofocus is essential. The Canon EOS 650D is the first entry-level DSLR to offer fast, accurate autofocus when shooting video.
Viewfinder
A good viewfinder is essential for creating beautiful photos. It is important not only for accurate photo composition, but also for greater accuracy when it comes to adjusting focus.
pentamirror
Cheaper entry-level DSLRs like the Canon 1100D and even some of the more expensive models, including the Canon EOS 650D and Nikon D5200, use a penta-reflex viewfinder. They are cheaper to manufacture and lighter in weight than pentaprism. Such a viewfinder is created from a set consisting of three separate mirrors.
The main disadvantages of penta-mirror viewfinders based on digital SLR cameras is that the image they convey is a little darker and more gloomy, and may lack image contrast a little. Of course, this does not affect the quality of the created image, but simply distorts the picture that you see through the viewfinder. Without knowing about such distortions, you may not fine-tune your camera, and as a result, get an image that is not what you expected to see.
Pentaprism
The pentaprism viewfinder is considered the best viewfinder for cameras for a reason. more expensive and professional cameras equipped with a pentaprism viewfinder, these are cameras such as Canon EOS 60D and EOS 7D, Nikon D7000 and D300s, as well as all full-frame cameras such as Nikon D600 and Canon EOS 6D.
The pentaprism viewfinder is made of five single-sided glass blocks, the pentaprism reflects the image onto the mirror twice, creating an accurate image of reality. A pentaprism viewfinder is relatively heavy and more expensive than a pentamirror viewfinder, but you get higher quality and brighter images as a result.
Electronic
For compact cameras that do not have a built-in optical or electronic viewfinder (EVF), a special electronic device, which allows you to connect an external viewfinder to a camera such as the Olympus.
Additional slot EVFs, most often of the hot shoe type, the mount is located on the top of the camera, such a viewfinder is often quite expensive, its cost is around £150 (up to £200). Another disadvantage of an external viewfinder is that it cannot be used simultaneously with an external flash that attaches through the same hot shoe.
Review
Ideally, the field of view should be 100%, meaning you see the image through the viewfinder the same size as it would be captured on the camera, but often not. Many viewfinders, especially cheaper ones like PentaSLRs, tend to only give 95% of the field of view, so you won't be able to see everything that ends up in the photo.
In practice, this is not a big problem, you can even find some advantages in this. So, you will always have a little extra space around the edges, which can come in handy when leveling the horizon (rotating the image a few degrees)
Good, pentaprism viewfinders give about 98% of field of view, and the best ones provide full 100% field of view.
Zoom
Of great importance is zooming, and the possibility of maximizing the approximation of the image. For example, the Canon EOS 550D only offers a 0.87x magnification, while the Canon EOS 7D gives a direct zoom of 1.0x.
Performance
Photography of moving objects, or in reportage photography, it is very convenient to shoot in continuous shooting mode, so this criterion is also important when choosing good camera. In addition, a high frame rate can be very useful in portraiture, allowing you to capture a fleeting facial expression.
Continuous Shooting
By switching the camera to continuous shooting mode, the camera will continue to shoot as long as you keep your finger on the shutter button. Memory buffer limitations limit the ability to record images. Cameras such as the Canon EOS 1100D and Nikon D3100 can only shoot three frames per second, while flagship cameras such as Canon's EOS-1D X are capable of up to 12 frames per second (or 14 frames per second if shooting in JPEG format).
Mid-range cameras such as the Canon EOS 7D are capable of shooting at 8 fps, while the Nikon D300S shoots at 7 fps, this speed can be increased to 8 fps by attaching the optional MB-D10 Battery Grip.
Computing power
To have the most high speed shooting, cameras must have high processing power so that they can process all the images in rapid succession. The imaging chips in the latest cameras tend to be much more powerful than those in older models. Some cameras, such as the high-speed Canon EOS 7D, are actually equipped with two image processors, giving them even more performance.
95% of my friends, when buying a SLR camera, use only automatic shooting mode with preset scenes: portrait, landscape, macro, etc. At most, some of them, once in a lifetime, turn on the manual mode, and without understanding anything in it, they turn it off forever.
But is this auto mode so good - let's figure it out? The more you use the camera, the more you realize that the scope of auto shooting is not enough for you. Not always, for example, auto mode can clearly cope with shooting in places with poor lighting. Let's figure it out.
As a rule, in all SLR cameras, in addition to the automatic mode with scene programs, there are 4 more modes that involve the direct participation of the photographer in setting the frame. Let's consider them in more detail.
- “P” software auto mode.
By and large, this is the same automatic shooting mode. The only thing is that you can adjust some parameters: white balance, matrix sensitivity, jpeg settings, etc.
Application: Used when there is no time for manual settings to take a quick shot. This mode is useful for beginner amateur photographers. This is a smooth transition from auto to more manual modes.
- “S” is shutter priority mode.
The photographer sets the shutter speed and the camera sets the aperture (f).
Application: This mode is used when you need to emphasize the movement in the frame. The effect of "motion blur" at slow shutter speeds, or the subject is clearly fixed at short exposures. This mode is great for shooting sports and domestic events, fountains, water, cars, etc.
In this mode, as a rule, the clarity of the background suffers.
- "A" aperture priority mode.
Unlike “ S" mode, here you already set the aperture value, and the camera selects the shutter speed. According to many photographers, this is the most convenient shooting mode. Aperture values are smaller than shutter speed values. Aperture control is much easier.
Application: Suitable for portraits (1.2-2.8 min aperture), landscapes (16-22) and static macro.
- "M" manual shooting mode.
The photographer manually sets all parameters. If you want to become a real pro, you need to work and experiment with this mode. In this mode, you can take absolutely any pictures. The only drawback of the manual mode is time. While you are adjusting the camera, you may miss a shot.
Application: Ideal for night photography and studio photography. In manual mode, you can experiment, for example, deliberately overexposing the frame, etc.
