Long exposure photography is one of my favorite things to do. This allows you to capture something that is different from 99% of the photos on the Internet, and also requires skills and suitable equipment.
To work with this type of photograph, you need to deliberately overestimate the exposure time. While fast shutter speeds capture the moment, slow shutter speeds blur motion, creating different effects depending on the subject.
At first, everything may seem complicated. Most frequently asked question, which arises for beginners: "Why do my long exposure photos come out white?" Fortunately, solving this problem is very easy. The first step is to get a better understanding of the exposure triangle. If you want to read in detail, click on the link, and within the framework of the article I will give a very short review. The exposure of a photo (that is, how bright or dark it is) is determined by three characteristics: ISO, aperture, and shutter speed.
Shutter speed controls how long the shutter stays open. For most ordinary photographs, shutter speeds range from 1/60 to 1/500, and we (depending on the subject) will need values from 1/10 second to 5 seconds or even 20 minutes. (Many cameras can't shoot faster than 30 seconds without Bulb, so you'll have to use an external shutter button.) More light will reach the sensor, resulting in a brighter image. If the shutter is left open too long, the output can be just a white canvas. The first step in solving the problem is to adjust the other two vertices of the exposure triangle.
ISO adjusts the sensor's sensitivity to light. Though technical side and it's hard to explain, it's enough to know that higher ISO values mean a brighter picture. Therefore, when shooting with a slow shutter speed, try to set the minimum ISO. The threshold level of most cameras is 100. Some models can even work with ISO 64, and Fuji cameras do not allow you to select a value below 200.
The third face of the exposure triangle is the aperture. Its value is responsible for the diameter of the hole that transmits light. The larger the aperture value, the wider the aperture. However, it is known that the relative aperture of the lens is indicated in fractional form. So f/8 actually means 1/8. Thus, if the f-number k more, then the relative aperture becomes smaller, because 1/16 is several times smaller than 1/4. If your photos come out white when using slow shutter speeds, try making the aperture ratio narrower by setting a smaller aperture. A good starting point is f/16 and the lowest ISO. Also keep in mind that a smaller aperture means more sharpness. If you need a shallow depth of field, you will have to resort to some other methods.
Okay, you've followed these tips but still haven't gotten an answer to your question. If you're shooting at the lowest ISO and small aperture, and the pictures are still bright, you'll have to resort to one of the following options.
First, shorten your exposure. Not every frame takes 20 seconds to expose. The desired effect can be obtained with 1/2 or even 1/8 s. However, this does not work for every situation. Sometimes there is too much light in the frame, but if you look at the examples below, you can see that some of them were taken with relatively fast (for this type of shooting) shutter speed.
If too much light is the problem, find a way to cut it down. For example, just try to photograph the same landscape at a darker time of day. Instead of trying to shoot at noon, take it at sunset or even on a cloudy day. This is one of the reasons cloudy days are perfect for shooting waterfalls when you need to increase your shutter speed a bit.
In the end, there is a very useful tool for this kind of shooting - the neutral density filter. These are regular sunglasses for your lens. Different ND filters have different densities. My personal choice is the 10-stop filter, which allows you to increase the shutter speed by 10 stops. For general shooting in the afternoon, a shutter speed of 1/30 s, ISO 100 and f/16 is required. With this filter, I can take the same shot with a shutter speed of 30s. The most commonly produced are 6- and 3-stop filters. If you need one or two extra stops, you can use a round polarizer.
When you figured out how to shoot at slow shutter speeds and bought an ND filter, it opens up for you. great amount interesting ways to use it. Here are some of my favorite types of photography.
dreamy ocean scenery
Have you seen photos of the coastline, the waves of which are turned into a mystical fog? While a fast shutter speed will stop the waves, a slow shutter speed will blur their movement. The choice of shutter speed depends on the amount of light, the frequency of the waves, and the depth of the water. A good starting point is ISO 100, f/16 and 15s.
lakes
Ripples in the water often ruin photos of lakes. This problem is easily solved by resorting to a slow shutter speed, which completely softens the surface. My ND filter has often saved me from water ripples or boring sunsets. Exposure here depends entirely on how strong the waves are. The picture was taken at ISO 200 (the minimum threshold for Fuji cameras), f/16 and a shutter speed of 90 s.
When taking the photo below, the water was much calmer, so I used a faster shutter speed. Here are the camera settings I chose: ISO 200, f/18, 5 sec. If you look closely, you can see another difficulty when working with slow shutter speeds - the tree on the left side has become blurry due to the wind.
waterfalls
I think it was waterfalls that initially inspired me to try long exposure photography. I looked endlessly at photographs of silky smooth waterfalls and really wanted to understand how it was done. A big plus is that when shooting waterfalls, you don’t need too long a shutter speed. But it is important to determine what part of the movement you want to convey. It's very easy to get a waterfall that doesn't have any context. Sometimes this is useful, but usually I still try to make the waterfall not completely blurry.
I wanted to keep most of the movement of Panther Creek Falls, so I set these settings: ISO 200, f/18, 1/8 sec.
Due to the darkness of this canyon, I had no choice, so I had to sacrifice the expressiveness of the waterfall and photograph it at ISO 800, f/11, 8s.
In the example below, I deliberately omitted sharpening to give the waterfall the appearance of a long silk cascade. Camera settings were: ISO 200, f/16, 5s.
streaks of light
Another one of my favorite examples. Light streaks are red or yellow/white lines that appear in a photo due to the headlights of passing cars. Here, the shutter speed is determined by how fast the cars are going. This is quite easy to do if a certain light source passes through the frame and you just need to calculate the time it takes for it to do so. However, when there are more cars and lights in the frame, things get more complicated. Below I have given some examples showing the camera settings.
Here it took a long exposure, as two streams of cars were moving in different directions. It was necessary to capture the end of one light source and the beginning of another. ISO 200, f/18, 15 sec.
When shooting the Brandenburg Gate, I was lucky because the flow of cars was moving at the same time. I took this photo at ISO 200, f/16 and 2.5s.
The photo below was not easy to take, as there are many lines of traffic in the frame that needed to be captured. ISO 200, f/16, 45 sec.
If you need more inspiration, there are other ways to work with long exposures. Search the internet for examples and see how you can get amazing clouds, how to work with camera wiring, etc.
One way to capture breathtaking night shots is to use slow shutter speeds. At the same time, the effects obtained when shooting at slow shutter speeds are often simply amazing and do not leave indifferent even the most sophisticated viewers.
So, armed with a camera and a tripod, let's go hunting for unique shots!
Night photography of the ferris wheel
If you are going to photograph the ferris wheel at night, position yourself close to it and use a wide-angle lens to capture as much detail as possible.
Photos with headlight and taillight marks from moving cars look amazing and give you an introduction to long exposure photography.
Choose a busy road with heavy traffic at night. Use a stable tripod and mount the camera on it so that it completely covers the section of the track with active traffic.
Set the aperture value to f/16 or smaller for a greater depth of field - this will allow you to get the maximum number of objects in focus in the frame. That's all the simple settings - you're ready to shoot.
Remember that the longer the shutter speed - the more traces of headlights and lanterns will be in your photo, and the longer they will be.
Blurred sea water
If you want to get amazing ocean and sky shots, you should try to use the amazing golden hour lighting - the last hour before sunset.
Stick to the basics of night photography: mount your camera on a tripod, use a fast wide-angle lens, focus at infinity.
Set your camera to Bulb (or Bulb) and use a slow shutter speed of 5 to 30 seconds.
The longer the shutter speed, the more blurry and foggy the water in the photo will turn out.
Use your camera's self-timer or cable release to reduce the chance of camera shake when you press the shutter button.
Be sure to turn off the flash - you don't want it to ruin your photo.
Determination of exposure
Your nighttime image will change depending on certain factors.
So, if there is a lot of ambient light in the scene being shot, then the shutter speed you need to take a photo will not be too long. If you are shooting in a dark place, then naturally you will need a longer shutter speed.
For example, in order to capture headlights and lantern trails from moving cars, you need a shutter speed of at least 1/15th of a second, which means you must use a tripod.
The photo of the Houses of Parliament you saw above required a shutter speed of 6 seconds to produce spectacular headlight trails. And the f/8 aperture made it possible to get a sharp image of the building.
Don't be afraid to experiment - the more you practice, the better you will understand what shutter speed you need to get this or that effect.
The main thing you have to think about when choosing a shutter speed is how to capture both shadows and highlights in a photo. If you get good at balancing the light and dark areas of a photo, you'll be remarkably good at night photography.
When shooting at slow shutter speeds, the main key to success is the ability to keep the shutter open for as long as necessary to obtain the desired effect.
For example, if the shutter speed is too slow, you risk losing detail in areas of the image that are illuminated by the light source.
To capture headlight trails and lights from moving vehicles, the shutter speed must be at least 1 second, which requires the use of a tripod.
Use shutter priority mode (TV) when shooting and start with a shutter speed of 1 second. Take a picture and evaluate the result. If the trail is too short, increase your shutter speed by 2 seconds and see what happens. If the result still does not meet your desires - continue to increase the shutter speed by 2 seconds until you achieve the desired effect (at such moments you perfectly understand the advantage of digital photography - the result of the shooting is visible immediately).
If you get too much blur in the photo, then the shutter speed was too long and you need to reduce it, perhaps by a whole second.
Necessary equipment
For long exposure photography, in addition to your digital camera, you need a . It will allow you to avoid unnecessary blur in the pictures.
In order to practice night photography and long exposure photography, your camera must support the ability to manually set the shutter speed and aperture.
Conclusion
The more you practice night photography, the better and better your results will become - you will learn to recognize lighting conditions and adjust your camera accordingly for optimal results.
Depending on what you are going to shoot, you can choose absolutely any shutter speed from 1/60th of a second to several minutes.
Light trails never repeat, which is what makes long exposure photography unique, so by practicing night photography and long exposure photography, you can build up a collection of unique shots.
Stunning long exposure night photography is a huge area of photography that many people don't even try to master.
Feel free to experiment, and your reward for mastering this technique will be unique, spectacular shots!
More useful information and news in our Telegram channel"Lessons and Secrets of Photography". Subscribe!Shutter speed is the most understandable and obvious of the three factors that affect exposure and is capable of creating the most noticeable effects. If you don't know what shutter speed is, you may end up with blurry or smeared photos. This lesson will teach you how to choose the right shutter speed for different situations, as well as how to use it to create creative effects.
Step 1 - What is exposure in photography?
Without going into unnecessary detail about how the shutter works, shutter speed is the amount of time the shutter opens. If you use a shutter speed slower than the specified one, you will get blurry pictures in most cases. Shutter speed controls exposure stops just like aperture, only much simpler. since the dependence in this case is directly proportional. For example, to reduce the exposure by half, you need to cut the shutter speed in half, say from 1/200 to 1/400 of a second.
Step 2 - Motion Blur and Freeze.
Assuming you're not taking blurry photos for creative effect, you'll need to choose a fast enough shutter speed ( high speed shutter) to prevent image blur. Blurring also depends on the focal length of the lens. A telephoto lens requires a faster shutter speed because even the slightest camera movement will be amplified by the lens. A wide-angle lens can work with slower shutter speeds.
As a rule, the average person can take a sharp, blur-free picture if you set the shutter speed to the reciprocal of the focal length. For example, to take a picture at a focal length of 30 mm, you need to set the shutter speed to no longer than 1/30 sec. If it is longer. then the probability of getting a blurry or smeared image will increase significantly. However, it is worth noting that this applies to a full-frame camera. if the camera sensor is smaller, then the shutter speed should be shortened by the crop factor. For example, for a crop factor of 1.5, the shutter speed will be 1/45 s.
There are exceptions to the rule, for example, if the lens has an image stabilization system that allows you to use much slower shutter speeds. As you learn how to handle your camera, you will gradually improve your skills, such as the ability to properly hold the camera in different situations, you can take sharp pictures at slower shutter speeds.
Here is an example of creative motion blur
Freezing
Freezing is much easier to do when shooting. This happens when shooting at very fast shutter speeds (1/500 sec or faster). Such a shutter speed freezes any movement, and the photo is clear, without the slightest blur. Personally, I don't like shooting at such fast shutter speeds, as the photo will come out flat. Instead, when shooting fast-moving subjects, I try to include some movement, otherwise the subject looks unnaturally frozen in place. This is shown in the bottom picture, the object seems to be hovering in the air.
Step 3 - Proper Exposure for Different Situations
Fast shutter speed for telephoto
Since the photo below was taken with a telephoto lens, it was important to use a fast shutter speed (1/500). If you had a tripod, you could use any shutter speed and cable release to prevent camera shake. A tripod allows you to keep the camera still.
Shooting moving subjects in low light conditions.
When you are filming a subject in low light, such as a concert, the performers are more likely to be moving around the stage. In this case, there is a contradiction between using a fast shutter speed and low light. In this case, you need to use the most open aperture and high ISO, which allows you to shoot without moving.
Step 4. Creative use of shutter speed
Creative blur.
With a remote shutter release and a tripod to hold the camera still, you can play with the shutter speed and create interesting blurry, out-of-the-box photos.
Adding a flash to a photo with a blur lets you freeze some subjects, which means you can move the camera around for an artistic effect.
Pan
Panning is a technique where you move the camera following a moving object, resulting in a blurred background and a sharp object. This picture was taken from a moving car that was traveling at the same speed as the train.
painting with light
To paint with light, you need a slow shutter speed and a light source. This photo was taken at a shutter speed of 30 seconds, during which I moved and shone a flash on the beach houses. This method is excellent for shooting at night and allows you to add light there. where do you want to go.
A slow shutter speed, combined with the movement of a small constant light source, allows you to add a graffiti effect to the image.
Because this photo was taken at night, I used a slow shutter speed and a tripod to get a decent exposure. You can also place the camera on a flat, fixed surface.
This photo required a long exposure, but for a different reason. I had to wait for a passing car to get into the frame, it took a sufficient amount of time. It took me about half an hour to find best position camera and shooting angle before I got the final image.
Learning how ND filters work and how to use them to achieve slower shutter speeds was a turning point in my photography. landscape photography. I immediately fell in love with the soft, dreamlike feeling I was able to achieve with long exposure daytime shots.
I've learned a lot since that day, and although I'm not only into long exposure photography, long exposure photography is a very important part of my job. And this is exactly what my students very often ask about. The long exposure technique has the ability to instantly turn a standard image into something more exciting.
As it should be, it takes a lot of practice to master any subject, but I want to help you with this by sharing some important tips that will make understanding long exposure photography much easier.
1. Pre-focusing when using ND filters
When I started learning about neutral density filters, or otherwise ND filters, there were not many articles and tutorials for working with them. This meant that it took quite a bit of time and effort to find solutions to some of my mistakes. I just couldn't figure out why all my photos with the 10-stop filter were blurry...
After a while, I realized this was due to the fact that I used autofocus with a wound filter.
By the way, for those who do not know what an ND filter is. This is a filter that wraps around the lens and darkens the image without affecting the colors. These filters come in different densities.
Each step or "Stop" of the ND filter reduces the amount of light entering the camera's matrix by exactly 2 times. Here is what the marking of each filter ND2, ND8 means:
1 Step = 2 = ND2 (light attenuation by 2 times)
2 Steps \u003d 2x2 \u003d 4 \u003d ND4 (light attenuation 4 times)
3 Steps = 2x2x2=8 = ND8 (light attenuation 8 times)
4 Steps = 2x2x2x2=16=ND16 (light attenuation 16 times)
10 Steps = 2x2x2x2x2x2x2x2x2x2=1024 =ND1024 (light attenuation 1024 times)
From this it is clear that a 10-stop ND filter is, in fact, a piece of black glass. Try looking through it with your eyes at the sun when it's low in the sky, and I bet you won't see much. This also applies to the camera. Most cameras can't focus properly when using dark ND filters - just like they can't autofocus at night.
The solution is to switch to manual focus. I know this sounds boring to some of you, but here's an easy way if you prefer autofocus:
- Mount your camera on a tripod and compose your shot
- Focus on the right place or main subject, if there is none, then focus on about one third of the depth of the scene (depending on the scene and the desired view)
- Switch auto focus to manual mode (read the instruction manual to find out how this is done with your camera/lens)
- Attach the ND filter to the lens
- Set the desired shutter speed and take a picture.
Since you switched to manual focus, the camera will not try to focus after you set the ND filter.
Note: Don't forget to repeat the process when changing angles and switch back to autofocus when you're done shooting with the filter.
2. Avoid light from the viewfinder into the lens
The biggest frustration I have ever experienced with long exposures was a mysterious purple glow that appeared in the center of my images.
It turned out to be caused by light leaking through the viewfinder, and the solution is pretty simple: close it!
Some cameras have a viewfinder off button. If your camera doesn't have one, I recommend using a piece of cardboard to place in front of the viewfinder.
However, it should be clarified that such light leaks do not always affect the picture. This phenomenon is most common when:
- You have a light source directly behind you (like the sun or a street lamp)
- You are using a shutter speed of 1 minute or more
I would still make it a habit to close the viewfinder whenever you use a shutter speed of 20 seconds or longer.
3. Remote Shutter + ModeBULB = Clear shots
One of the biggest challenges you will face when experimenting with ND filters and slow shutter speeds is getting sharp images. There are many factors that can cause images to be out of focus; One of the most common is camera shake.
The maximum shutter speed of most DSLR cameras is 30 seconds. To use a slower shutter speed, you need to use the "Bulb" mode. In this mode, the shutter is open as long as the shutter button is pressed.
You can imagine (and try if you don't believe me!) that manually pressing the shutter button for one or two minutes will cause a lot of camera shake. What does this lead to? That's right, blurry photos.
In this case, a remote shutter release, wired or wireless, is absolutely necessary. You can find an inexpensive remote control for 200-400 rubles, but I recommend paying attention to those models that have:
- the ability to "lock" the shutter button pressed
- LCD display that shows exposure time
But these remotes can cost more.
Conclusion.
Long exposure photography is a lot of fun and a great way to improve your understanding of how the basic principles of a camera (ISO, aperture and shutter speed) work together. Because we're working with shutter speeds up to a few minutes, there are many factors that can lead to bad shots, but the results can be mesmerizing with a little practice.
The tips I've shared in this article provide solutions to some of the most common problems in long exposure photography, and I hope they clear up some of the annoyances for you. If you want to learn everything you need to know to take beautiful long exposure shots, be sure to check out my tutorial. online course: “Secrets of long exposure photography for beginners”. To get acquainted with the course and get it with a good discount*, click on the picture below (*DISCOUNT IS AVAILABLE TO MY STUDENTS ONLY 48 HOURS)
Long exposure photography is often associated with fine art photography, one of the " visual arts because it allows photographers to achieve surreal and ethereal effects, often from rather banal phenomena. Most cameras aren't specifically designed for long exposure photography, but you can get great results with just about any camera with the right exposure and focus.
A 16mm wide-angle lens on a full-frame DSLR used f/10 for adequate depth of field. Exposure time 13 sec. ISO 800 value. The tripod helped make this 13 second exposure. Long-term exposure blurs all water movements, giving a creamy look to the water surface. City lighting adds a warm tone that matches the colors of the fireworks. Mounting the camera on a tripod allows you to use much slower shutter speeds than is possible with handheld photography, even if the lens and body are stabilized.
Another great benefit that a tripod gives you is the ability to set your camera's shutter speed to over a minute (preferably at least 30 seconds or longer).
Camera Requirements for Long Exposure Photography
Long exposure shooting doesn't require any special lenses, and it doesn't matter if your camera has the ability to mount interchangeable lenses. The two most important requirements are the ability to shoot at shutter speeds longer than one minute and the ability to shutter without camera shake (remote shutter release, self-timer shooting).
Most cameras are equipped with self-timers that delay the start of exposure by two, five, or 10 seconds, allowing the camera to stabilize before the shutter opens. The longer the delay, the more likely the camera is stable.
An alternative is remote control, which can be either wireless or wired. Wireless remotes are preferred as they don't have physical contact with the camera while the cable can snap. A blocking remote is needed for very long exposures. You can also use a smartphone with special software for remote shutter release if your camera has wi-fi.
It is better if the camera supports shutter speeds B (Bulb) and, or, T (Time).
B (bulb) Bulb exposure or manual exposure - a mode of operation of the camera shutter, in which the frame window opens when the shutter button is pressed, and closes when it is released. In this case, the shutter speed is set manually. In modern equipment, it is denoted by the Latin letter "B".
Traditionally, the B setting keeps the shutter open when the shutter (or remote) button is held down, while the T setting opens the shutter on the first press of the shutter button and closes on the second press.
However, many camera manufacturers make changes to exposure controls. Some limit the exposure length for Bulb or Time, often limiting the exposure to less than 30 minutes, which is not ideal for astrophotography, for example. Check your camera manual for all the features.
Many different phenomena can be photographed with long exposures; you need to decide whether you want to capture the moving subject itself in sharp focus or blur and blur the movement. If it's the first option, you'll be looking for interesting lighting. The second case is manifested in blurry effects.
Photo of tourists around the campfire. This 10 second exposure at ISO 400 was taken with digital camera with a small sensor, shows some blur caused by the movement of the subject, as well as traces of image noise.
Popular long exposure scenes containing motion include astrophotography and light trails from passing vehicles, blurry clouds or swaying grass in landscapes, and blurry waves in seascapes, photos of streams or rivers, or created ethereal effects with waterfalls. In a city, long exposures can be used to make crowds of people disappear on the street or ghostly images of passers-by appear.
The image was taken with a 10mm lens on an APS-C DSLR using ISO 100 to minimize noise and at f/5.6. This 10-minute exposure, showing trails of stars, would not have been possible without a tripod.
It helps to scout places in advance, so you have a good idea where you can set up your tripod. Huge lighting can be fleeting and you want to be ready to shoot when it arrives.
Check the weather forecast before you leave the house, you need to know if it will rain or wind and when. you can use weather in photos or avoid them. In any case, when planning a photo shoot, it's worth knowing what to expect. Check the time of high or low tide if you are shooting seascapes.
Exposure options for long exposure photography
: Turn off flash, turn off image stabilization, and select manual shooting mode first. Mount your camera on a tripod and focus on the area you want to capture. Smaller lens apertures allow for longer exposure times and the widest depth of field. They are ideal for scenes photographed with wide-angle lenses.
Photographing fireworks and fireworks at long exposures. A tripod was used for this shot. 1.6 second exposure at ISO 1600 at f/16. M - mode. Exposure for shooting fireworks shouldn't be too long, but it's usually longer than you can realistically hold the camera still even with IS.
Mounting the camera on a tripod allows you to use the lowest sensitivity settings to minimize noise in the photo. Noise reduction when shooting with the camera's processor can in some cases soften the image slightly, but should reduce the frequency of the noise.
Determining long exposure times can be tricky because some camera metering systems do not work at very low light levels, and subject brightness ranges are often wider than the dynamic range of the camera's sensor. When this is the case, it's best to find exposure empirically through trial and error and be prepared to take multiple shots at different exposure settings. If the camera is mounted on a tripod, pictures can be combined to create correct by using software for editing images, by creating panoramas.
To correctly expose the sky, a shutter speed of 20 seconds long at ISO 200 is required. This results in the foreground being underexposed to the point of appearing as a silhouette, and no detail can be extracted in post-processing. The way out of the situation may be a second shot with a longer exposure and a little more sensitivity to correctly expose the foreground, which can then be combined with the first in Photoshop.
Unless your camera has special settings for astrophotography, an exposure of at least 30 minutes must be provided to capture star trail lines. The most impressive photographs require longer exposures, often several hours.
Light trails from moving vehicles usually require much faster shutter speeds. In a crowded area, a 30-second exposure should show a decent effect. Mount your camera on a tripod and use f/11 or smaller for maximum depth of field.
Blurry shots of water can be achieved with exposures ranging from five to 30 seconds - or several minutes. The longer the exposure, the more foggy the water becomes.
Photographs containing the moon are difficult to record due to differences in brightness between the moon and the rest of the composition. The best results are obtained when the moon is close to the horizon, where its brightness is attenuated by the atmosphere, especially when there is any haze in the air or when it is cloudy.
Sydney Harbor on New Year's Eve, photographed with a 75mm lens on a full-frame SLR. An 8-second shutter speed blurs the movements of boats in the bay at ISO 800 at f/8.
Light painting and long exposure photography
Sometimes the light is too bright for the main subject to appear as something other than a silhouette. In such cases, it is easy to add lighting effects to the subject without resorting to flash, "painting" it with light from a flashlight or laser pointer. Video example below
Light painting requires very long exposures, usually at least 30 seconds, as you need time to reproduce the light pattern on the subject. Move the light carefully to ensure an even exposure. The best light painting technique is to move the spot of light from one side of the object to the other so that the light covers it from top to bottom.
A two-second exposure of the carousel in motion creates a powerful impression of speed. Photo taken Samsung camera NX1 at ISO 100 with 16mm focal length and f/22 aperture for maximum depth of field.
When capturing a light trail, use shutter priority mode and start with the camera's lowest camera setting and exposure between two and five seconds. Check the result, and if the trail is too short and/or the scene as a whole is underexposed, double the exposure time. Keep shooting and checking the result, increasing the exposure time until you get the desired effect.
Scenes in which water is the main subject are usually best photographed immediately after the sun has risen. This ensures that there is enough light in the sky to keep the reflections in the still water sharp and clear, as well as retain the dawn glare.
Choosing a tripod for long exposure photography
Choosing a tripod depends on how much weight you can carry and your preference for adjusting the tripod head that holds the camera. If you can customize your equipment while having a car (or other vehicle), you have a great opportunity to use a heavy rigid tripod. For really long exposures (a few minutes to an hour or more), a stronger tripod is better.
Hikers and photographers who have to carry their equipment for a kilometer or more will probably prefer a lightweight tripod. This forces a trade-off between weight, stability and cost, and it can limit the height at which the camera can be placed. Carbon fiber tripods provide the best combination of light weight and durability. But they usually cost two to four times more than a similar aluminum tripod.
Cheaper tripods can be used for exposures of less than 30 seconds, for photography in calm conditions. But make sure the tripod legs are well planted on the ground. If there is a light breeze, attach a heavy weight to the center post to prevent possible wobble.
There are several types of tripods: pan heads and ball heads are the most popular, but geared heads provide more precise settings and are more preferred by architectural photographers. Ball heads are more compact than tilt heads, but the latter are easier to adjust.