CAMERA REPAIR
To competently carry out repairs, you first need to understand the device of digital cameras. Let's start with optics. Inside the lens are the diaphragm and the shutter. The diaphragm consists of several petals and, when closed, reduces the diameter of the hole through which light enters the matrix. Due to this, the amount of incident light is reduced and excessive illumination of the matrix is prevented when the subject is brightly lit. There is a gate nearby. Just like the Aperture, it is able to change the amount of light that hit the matrix.
The camera lenses are immersed in the case when the power is off and leave it when it is turned on. Even a slight blow to it in the on position can ruin the camera. Another element of the lens that you need to be extremely careful with is the lens. It must be protected from contact with any objects. The quality of the image in the pictures, its sharpness, directly depends on the purity of the lens. Dust can be removed from the lens with a stream of air from a special can of compressed air. Fingerprints can be wiped off with a clean cloth, and if heavily soiled, special lens cleaning fluid is required.
If the indicator is constantly flashing and clicks are heard in the lens, it means that the lens is jammed due to broken teeth at the gear in the gearbox. It happens that the bushing that moves the shutter and diaphragm mechanism breaks in lenses.
The shutter of a digital camera, as a rule, is open and the light passing through the lens continuously hits the matrix. The digital camera continuously acquires an image from the sensor and displays it on the camera monitor. And if the shutter is closed, we will not see the images on the monitor. Although after shooting a frame with a high resolution, the shutter closes for the time required to copy information from the matrix to the camera's memory. An infrared filter is located behind the lens of the lens, which prevents the passage of infrared rays to the photosensitive matrix. Vision does not allow us to see infrared rays, which means that a digital camera should not see them either. Otherwise, the image obtained with such a camera will differ from what we see.
In the course of the light rays, there is a photosensitive matrix, the upper part of which is made of glass. Under the protective glass is a light-sensitive surface of the matrix. Its surface consists of many light-sensitive cells. Light falling on their surface creates an electric charge in the depths of each of them. After shooting, the resulting charges are transferred to an analog-to-digital converter. This is where digitization takes place. Large charges are assigned large numbers, and small charges are assigned small numbers. If there is no charge in the cell, it is assigned the value 0, but the maximum value depends on the ADC capacity. For most cameras, this value corresponds to 255, that is, 8 bits per channel. The digitized information enters the working memory. This is a microcircuit capable of storing information only in the presence of electrical power. The picture is in RAM for only a fraction of a second. Here it is digitally processed - color reproduction, sharpness, brightness and other image characteristics are improved. Digital cameras of different companies can use the same photosensitive matrices, and the quality of the resulting image, due to different digital processing, will differ significantly. The converted picture is transferred to the memory card. Here, a digital photograph is stored regardless of whether there are batteries in the camera or not.
The inoperability of the memory card may be due to dirty contacts. You can correct the situation by rubbing the contacts of the card with a cloth with an effort.
If the camera does not work after installing the battery, check if the connection is correct. If you installed the battery in the camera without much effort, this does not mean that it is installed correctly and the camera will work. Also, the reason may be weakly charged cells - the current consumption of cameras can be more than an ampere and the camera will not even turn on on weak batteries.
The central processor controls everything. Above the lens is an optical viewfinder. During zooming, the distance between the lenses of the lens changes, and accordingly the image scale. Similar movements of the lenses occur in the optical viewfinder of the camera, so it is made in one unit with the lens.
If the power is normal, but still does not turn on - most likely the processor is out of order. You need to change the processor. But first, you should measure the current consumption when turned on, if the value is zero - most likely there is a power failure somewhere.
The flash unit is located on a separate board with a large capacitor and a transformer. There is a liquid crystal monitor on the back of the camera, which shows the image during shooting.
Instruction
In the event of any malfunction, first of all open the instruction manual for the device. It can be either a printed manual or an electronic manual on a CD. Find in the list possible faults appropriate type of problem and review the troubleshooting steps.
If so, it's most likely time to change the batteries. Swap batteries with known good batteries. When installing, pay attention to the correct location of the batteries in the slots. If the problem persists, the new set of batteries may be defective, try replacing them with different ones.
If the device is equipped with lithium batteries, install them in the charger and check if the device is dead. Charge the battery if necessary.
If the camera is not shooting, check that there is enough space on the memory to save new photos. If there is no free memory, replace the card with a new one or delete unnecessary images from the old card by first transferring them to another medium (disk, flash card, etc.).
If replacing the memory card does not solve the problem, the shooting conditions may not allow the flash to fire (not enough light). Pay attention to the light-emitting indicators that are located on the back of the device. When the indicator is flashing, refer to the instruction manual to find out the cause of the problem and how to solve it.
One indication of a problem is poor image quality, where images are overexposed or underexposed. In this case, do not rush to take the device to a service center, but check the flash and exposure compensation settings. Usually the button that changes these settings is located on the back of the camera and can be pressed accidentally.
If the image is regularly out of focus, check if the Macro Focus option is set on the machine. Correct the setting if necessary.
If images appear distorted when zoomed in, make sure the lens is clean and free from dust or fingerprints. If the lens is dirty, clean it using only a special cloth, not paper towels, which can easily scratch the lens.
If the memory card cannot be read, possible cause contacts may be contaminated. Wipe the contacts with a rubber eraser. In most cases, this procedure restores the performance of the camera. If the problem persists, reformat the card or replace it with a new one. Please note that reformatting the memory card will permanently delete all images.
If the described troubleshooting methods do not return the camera to working capacity, contact the service center. Serious breakdowns of digital equipment should not be attempted to be repaired on your own. Specialists will diagnose the device, fix the problem or recommend replacing the device with a serviceable one, if such a possibility is provided for by the warranty.
As a first approximation, any digital camera consists of the following main parts and assemblies: Lens and diaphragm, a set of optical converters and mirrors and a digital matrix, a control and data storage unit.
The principle of operation of the camera is well understood from block diagram in the figure below:
If you look at the figure above, it is clearly visible that first the light flux enters the lens, then follows through the aperture and shutter, which dose the amount of light that enters the photosensitive elements of the matrix. Each pixel of the matrix transmits information about the intensity of the light flux and the light spectrum. This information is then sent to an analog-to-digital converter. From the output of the ADC, the digital code through the processing unit is displayed on a digital display or stored in internal or external memory.
The device and principle of operation of a SLR camera can be viewed here:
Service manuals for digital cameras Casio EX-P600 EX-S1/M1, EX-S2/M2, EX-S3, QV-3EX, EX-S770, EX-S770D, QV-100B, QV-100C, QV-4000 and other models
BBK digital photography equipment in the collection with manuals you will find information on disassembly, a spare parts catalog for BBK DP710, DP810, DP830, DP850, DP1050, DP1250, etc.
Detailed service manual for digital camera LG LDC-A310.
Protection clause digital cameras during their operation, and LG GR-DV 4000 fault description with DC/DC converter
Repair of Olympus digital cameras associated with disassembling the camera or replacing the firmware, in order to avoid unnecessary damage, you must begin by familiarizing yourself with the required service manual and the device of a specific camera model, which you can download from us.
General information when repairing a digital camera
To make a good repair of your digital camera, you first need to clearly understand the device of the camera. To begin with, it should be understood that any photographic equipment is primarily optics, and only then electronics.
Camera device short course young repairman: A diaphragm and a shutter are placed inside the lens. The membrane consists of several petals and, when closed, reduces the caliber of the hole through which the light goes to the matrix. Due to this, the amount of incident light is miniaturized and excessive illumination of the matrix is prevented when the subject is clearly illuminated.
Close to the obturator. He, like the Membrane, is able to modify the amount of light that hit the matrix. Camera lenses sink into the case when turned off and exit when connected. That's why even a very small bump with the lens extended has the ability to ruin the camera. The lens must be protected from contact with any chemicals. The property of the image in the pictures, its sharpness, directly depends on the purity of the lens. Fingerprints can be wiped off with a clean cloth, and for heavy soiling, you will need a special liquid to clean the optics. If the indicator flashes continuously and clicks are heard in the lens, this means that the lens is jammed due to a malfunction of the gear teeth in the gearbox. Also, the bushings, the moving part of the shutter and diaphragm device are broken in the lenses. The shutter of digital cameras is usually open and the light passing through the microlens constantly passes to the matrix. A digital camera constantly acquires an image from the matrix and displays it on the camera monitor. And if the shutter of the digital camera is closed, we will not see the images on the monitor. But in some cases, after shooting a frame with a huge resolution, the digital camera shutter closes for the time required to transfer information from the matrix to the camera's memory. An infrared filter is placed behind the lens of the lens, which prevents the passage of infrared rays to the photosensitive matrix. The human eye does not perceive infrared rays in any way, which means that a digital camera is not obliged to display them in any way.
Next, a photosensitive matrix is placed, the upper fraction of which is made of glass. The photosensitive plane of the matrix is located in front of the protective glass. Structurally, it consists of a large number of photosensitive cells. Light falling on them produces a galvanic charge. After the shooting is completed, the resulting charges are transferred to the analog-to-digital converter. This is where digitization comes in. The digitized information is transferred to the RAM memory. RAM stores information only when it is on. The picture is located in RAM for only microseconds. Here it is also digitally processed - color reproduction, sharpness, saturation and other image properties are improved. . The processed image is transferred to the memory card. Here, a digital photo can be stored for a long time.
The main problem that occurs with digital flash drives is due to contamination of the contacts. To eliminate this problem, it is enough just to rinse the contacts with, for example, benzene.
If the digital camera does not turn on, check the correct connection of the batteries and their charge level with at least a conventional tester. The current in the batteries must be at least 1 ampere, at lower values the camera runs the risk of not even turning on
The main microcontroller controls the digital camera. Above the lens is a visual viewfinder. During zooming, the distance between the lenses of the lens changes. If there are no problems with the batteries and the camera still does not turn on, check whether power is supplied to the main microcontroller (processor) if everything is OK, you need to change it. Do not rush to open the camera without having disassembly instructions at hand, otherwise you risk damaging the fastening elements. You can download a large number of service instructions from the website http://www.site
The flash unit is located on a separate board with a huge capacitor and a transformer. There is an LCD monitor on the back of the camera.
Some Common Problems and Solutions for Digital Cameras
Faulty optical sensor in the lens of a digital camera or camcorder: The optocoupler consists of 2 parts - a radiation source (IR LED) and a photodetector (for example, a photodiode, a phototransistor, a photothyristor). You can determine the part of the light emitter, as well as the anode and cathode of the LED, using a conventional tester. Accordingly, opposite the outputs of the light emitter - the outputs of the photodetector and, as a rule, opposite the output of the anode of the light emitter - the anode or collector of the photodetector, opposite the cathode of the light emitter - the cathode or emitter of the photodetector. Optocouplers in cameras are used in the mechanism zoom lens. When voltage is applied to the emitter and the light flow is open, the photodetector is open and the voltage on its anode or collector is zero, when the photodetector is closed, the voltage is equal to the power source. If it is not possible to check the optocoupler directly in the camera, the performance can be checked according to the following diagram.
The lens in a digital camera is a complex optical-mechanical device that combines elements of precision mechanics and optics. In cameras, it is most at risk of failure. Suffice it to say that about 70% of camera malfunctions are due to a lens defect, and in the vast majority of cases, the cause of malfunctions is human factor, i.e. dropped, stepped on, spilled liquid, careless handling, foreign particles in the lens drive, such as sand, etc. AT Canon cameras ixus xxx, if a lens malfunction occurs, after turning on the camera, after a while, the display is displayed, after which the device turns off..
I hope it is clear that getting even the smallest grain of sand between the teeth of the zoom lens drive gear will cause it to jam, and a slight mechanical impact will damage the teeth of the same gears or lens pins. when a malfunction occurs in the lens, when the mechanism drive cannot "drive in". elimination algorithm if all the parts are intact, carefully disassemble and clean, if necessary, replace the failed parts. Sometimes it's easier to replace the entire lens, because some parts are simply impossible to find
Typical problems arising in the CF connectorFirstly, these are broken connector contacts, and secondly, they can be bent, and because of this, the memory card cannot be read. The appearance of a malfunction occurs due to improper installation of the flash drive. Symptoms of manifestation can be very diverse, for example: a digital camera simply does not turn on, and most likely connector contacts shorted, which activates the camera protection. Due to closed contacts, complications can be more dangerous, for example, the voltage converter often crashes. Also, there were often cases when the camera without a memory card works well, but after its installation it does not turn on at all. The reason is also bent contact. The camera works, "but does not detect" the memory card. Most likely the reason is encrypted in a broken connector pin.
Camera flash repairAttention, on the storage capacitor of the flash, the voltage is about 300 volts, with careless handling, you can not only get an electric shock, but also easily ruin the camera forever. Discharge the storage capacitor of the flash unit each time the power is connected. You can discharge the capacitor through a resistor with a resistance of 1-2 kOhm.
A digital camera without a flash is of little use, and in low light conditions it makes no sense to use it. Therefore, the repair of cameras with such a malfunction from users, as a rule, does not raise questions. As for the practical side of the issue: often the repair process is complicated not so much because of the lack of components, but because of the lack of service documentation. Unfortunately, at present there is very little technical literature on the device of flash units, a description of the principles of their operation. electronic circuits, despite the fact that there is a huge interest in the device of photo flashes and, moreover, in their repair, not only among camera owners, but also, often, among workers at camera repair shops, especially in the provinces. Let's look at the operation of the flash circuit diagram film camera Fig 1.
The flash blocking generator circuit is assembled on a Q303 transistor. At the moment of switching on, the transistor is open with a negative voltage coming through the resistor R305, the winding of the transformer T301, the open transistor Q304. As a result, a current flows through winding I of the transformer, which induces a pulse of positive polarity in winding II. It closes transistor Q303. The current in the winding I begins to decrease. The disappearing magnetic field induces a pulse of negative polarity in winding II, which again leads to the opening of the transistor.
The process is repeated continuously. Pulses of different polarity induce current in the winding III of the transformer and, being rectified by diode D302, charge capacitors C303 to a voltage of 250 - 280 volts, C302 through resistors R308 R306. When the shutter button is pressed, the flash sync contact fires. A positive voltage is applied to the control electrode of the thyristor SR301, opens it and closes the capacitor C302 to the case, causing it to discharge and a sharp decrease in current in the primary winding of the transformer T302. The disappearing magnetic field induces a high-voltage pulse in the secondary winding, causing a gas breakdown in the bulb of the XE301 flash lamp and, as a result, a bright short-term glow
Schematic diagram of the flash of a digital camera company Sony DSC- P52 The same blocking oscillator circuit Q503, T501, rectifier diode D502, storage capacitor C508. The role of the key on the thyristor SR301 is performed by the field-effect transistor Q506, etc.
The process of obtaining high-quality photography initially required considerable skill and experience. With the invention of digital cameras, a new era in photography has begun. Anyone can capture a moment in digital format and, if desired, transfer their work to paper or a photo frame.
Almost every family today has a digital camera. And how many times, albeit without malicious intent, did your beloved fotik suffer from falls or a careless blow? In this article, we will consider the regular breakdowns of digital cameras resulting from mechanical damage.
A modern mid-range digital camera is slightly larger mobile phone. But don't be fooled. Digital camera is quite complicated electronic device. In this small box, moving along a complex kinematic scheme mechanical parts with electronic stuffing. As a rule, when a digital camera is struck, its most delicate part, the optical system, suffers. Namely, the basket of a digital camera lens. Let's consider the repair using the example of a digital camera of the middle price range costing between 6-8 thousand rubles. The cost of a new lens barrel is approximately 1500 rubles. At first glance it seems: what is easier? I bought a lens barrel, dismantled a digital camera. I replaced the broken part and reassembled the camera. In fact, everything is not so simple.
First, get a set of watch screwdrivers (350-450 rubles), because without them you won’t even be able to disassemble the body of a digital camera. Then the most interesting and difficult part of the repair begins - disassembly. To carry out a quality repair, several conditions must be met.
- First, the room must be practically sterile. Otherwise, a mote that gets on the matrix or internal lenses of the photo lens will spoil all your photographs.
- Secondly, it is desirable to have good lighting on the surface of the table on which the digital camera will be disassembled. You'd be surprised how small screws hold the inside of the camera.
- The third condition is the preliminary disassembly of a digital camera for troubleshooting, which results in the storage of a large number of small screws of various sizes and the parts of the photo lens with lenses and a photo matrix in disassembled form until the purchase of the part to replace the defective one.
The most important thing is to carefully remember the sequence in which you shoot the parts of a digital camera, because you will have to assemble it in exactly the reverse order.
To facilitate the work, we recommend that you pre-magnetize the screwdrivers.
The cost of disassembly and assembly service center similar camera - 1500 rubles. If you are a do-it-yourselfer and are happy to study the device of a digital camera, then the time spent and patience will more than pay off with the realization of the amount of money saved and the experience gained. If you still doubt the availability of patience and due skill, it is better to contact specialized service centers. Repairing a camera in a service center means getting a quality repair, accompanied by warranty obligations. Indeed, in case of failure, the time and effort spent cannot be compensated for by colorful photographs taken with a repaired digital camera.
Here is a quote that caught my eye (from the dialogue between the client and the master of the workshop):
- "How much does it cost to repair or replace the lens of a Power Shot SX 10IS camera (minimum and maximum cost) - a post-warranty camera.
The camera did not fall. just gave a lens error. What is the repair time?
- "Good afternoon, Marina.
The cost of repairing the SX10 lens is 4800 rubles, lens replacement is most likely not required. The term is usually 1-2 weeks, depending on the complexity of the problem. All this is preliminary information, the final answer to your questions will be given by diagnostics, which we have for free.
Regards, Alexey..."
And here is the material that I found on the Internet ... Maybe you shouldn’t lay out money right away? Need to try....
Lens failure - this has to be the most common digital camera failure. Some general messages Errors that may be displayed on cameras with this problem include “E18 lens” (“E18 lens error” in older Canon models), “ACCESS” (access error) (Sony), “Zoom Error” (zoom error) ( Fuji), "LensObstructed"("lens problem") (Kodak) , "lens>error, restartcamera" ("lens error, restart camera") or just "lens error" ("lens error") (almost all camera manufacturers in recent times use this option). Some cameras may not show anything at all on the display, but only emit a beep, the lens drives in and the camera turns off. Sometimes the lens won't even pop out.
The problem is actually quite common with all models of digital cameras. This is usually sand or other small particles that get into the lens extension mechanism and the autofocus mechanism. Or the camera was dropped with the lens extended. Perhaps the camera was turned on, but the lens was prevented from extending (for example, accidentally turned on in a bag). It happens that after the lens is extended, the batteries run out and the camera turns off with the lens extended. Believe it or not, one of the causes of lens failure is the use of cases and purses. Sand, dirt, fibers, etc. accumulate at the bottom of the body. These materials like to cling to the body of the camera due to the electrostatic charge when rubbed (especially in cases where the case is soft and fleecy). After these particles find their way into the lens mechanism, error messages occur. I have a lot of Canon cameras and never use cases for this very reason.
The owner of the camera with this problem, perhaps, does not make any sense to contact the warranty workshop. Many camera manufacturers will not fix this issue under warranty. According to them, this is due to damage to the camera due to impact or sand or debris trapped in the lens extension mechanism (none of which is covered by the warranty). The repair cost is usually close to or more than what the camera is actually worth. Since warranty workshops in most cases change a defective lens to a new one, the cost of which as a spare part is high.
Fortunately, about half of the cameras that suffer from this problem can be easily fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods require disassembly of the camera, although some of them can cause other damage if overused and not taken care of. If the camera is still under warranty, before applying any of these, please visit your camera manufacturer's warranty shop to see if the repair will be covered under warranty or to determine how much they will charge for a paid repair. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they quote an amount that is higher than the cost of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods. Here is a video description of each of the troubleshooting methods, followed by a detailed description of them.
The methods are listed in order of risk of damage to your camera. Therefore, you should try them in that order. And remember that these methods (in particular, No. 6 and 7) should only be considered for cameras for which the warranty period has expired, the indicated repair cost would be excessive. If these methods did not lead to the correction of the error, it is possible to contact a paid service, the cost of repairs in which is lower than in the warranty one.
Method 1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Insert a fresh set of batteries (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500 mAh or higher) and turn on the camera. If you have been using batteries for more than a year, consider purchasing new batteries as they may not provide enough power to start the camera.
Method 1a: If the new batteries do not work, try pressing and holding the Menu, Function, Set, or OK button while turning on the camera. This, along with Method 1 and Method 2, sometimes works to correct lens errors that occur due to battery drain when the lens is extended.
Method 1b: For those of you who were able to access the camera menu with this error, try searching for and selecting "reset" to reset the camera. On some Canon cameras, this requires holding the menu button with the power button for up to 10 seconds. Note, however, that a lens error may sometimes prevent the reset option, and thus the option may not be displayed.
Method 2: If the camera's batteries are completely dead while its lens was still open, the camera may show a lens error or not start correctly when new batteries are installed. Remove the memory card and do not insert into the camera, then install new batteries. When you turn on the camera without a card, it may come back to life as this causes a reset on some models. Error E30 (for older Canons) means that you do not have a card installed, so you should turn off the camera, insert the card and turn it on again.
Method 3: Insert its audio/video (AV) cable into the camera and turn on the camera. Connecting the cable ensures that the camera's LCD screen remains off while the process starts. This way, additional battery power will be available to the camera lens motor during startup. This extra power can be helpful in overcoming dust or sand that can interfere with the lens. If an AV cable does not fix the lens error on its own, I consider keeping this cable installed as a skimmer when trying to fix 4, 5, and 7 as a means to provide extra power to aid in the process of these attempts. But note that I do not recommend keeping the cable installed during the Fix 6 process as this may damage the AV port when trying to turn on the camera.
Method 4: Place the camera on its back on a table with the lens pointing towards the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button and at the same time press the power button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is extended. We hope that while the lens extends and the autofocus lens moves, the guide pins will sit in place.
Method 5: Use a blower to blow compressed air through the gaps between the lens cups. The idea is to blow sand or other debris stuck in the lens mechanism. Other purge options are using a hair dryer on a cool setting or sucking air out of the lens gaps (be careful with this!). Some use a vacuum cleaner for this.
Now we are entering the realm of potentially dangerous ways to save the camera. There is certainly some risk, so be careful when doing the following:
Method 5a: If you do notice sand particles in the cavity around the lens barrel and airflow does not help to dislodge them, consider using tissue paper or sewing needle to help clean them up. Pay Special attention to avoid scratching the lens barrel with a needle. Also, I don't recommend probing too deep around the paper lens barrel (don't go deeper than 1cm). I especially don't recommend deep probing around the outermost (largest) part of the lens barrel, as you can knock out the anti-dust gasket that is just inside that gap.
Method 6: Repeatedly hit the rubber cap on the USB port with the intent to dislodge any particles that might interfere with the lens of the lens. It is also possible to tap the camera body with the palm of your hand. Many people report success with this method. However, there are also some obvious possibilities for internal components to be damaged or dislodged using this method, such as cables falling out of connectors, or a cracked LCD screen.
Method 6a: This is a variation of Method 6 and is applicable if the lens barrels are straight (not bent by impact). In other words, try this unless there is obvious mechanical damage to the barrels that is causing the problem. With the lens pointing down, try "softly" tapping the lens from all sides with a small object such as a pen or pencil. The idea is to try to knock out sand particles that can interfere with lens barrel movement. Simultaneously try turning the camera on and off while you do this.
1.
Method 7a: Please note that this correction method is only for cameras whose lens extends, then stops after going part of the way, and then returns to its original position. Try to grab and hold the smallest front lens cup in the most extended position without letting the lens come back. Inspect and clean the area around the lens cups from dust and sand. Turn the camera off and on again. If the lens extends further, grab the front glass again without letting it come back. Repeat cleaning again. Turn the camera off and on again to check if the problem is gone.
Method 7b: The most extreme fix. Just be aware that this is the absolute last resort before throwing your camera away, and there is an obvious potential for further camera damage with this method. You may consider this technique if the lens is visibly and visibly damaged, bent, or twisted, such as from a fall. In this case, try thinking of the lens as a shoulder dislocation. Try to force the lens to straighten up and stand back in place. In this case, the pins of the lens cups will become in their guides. Your goal is to try to transplant them by straightening the lens. Listen for a "click" confirming that the pins have jumped into the guides, and immediately stop any further effort at that point. More and more people are reporting the success of this method compared to any other methods.
Variations of Method 7b: Gently pulling, rotating, and/or twisting the lens barrel while pressing the power button. Check the lens for any hint of tilt or unevenness. Again, the goal is to try to straighten or straighten the barrels if they are twisted or twisted. Another option is to look for uneven gaps around the lens barrel and then push down on the side of the lens barrel that has the most gap (note, pushing the lens barrel all the way down is not recommended as it can get stuck there). Again, with all of the above, you should listen to a “click”, which means the pins of the glasses fell into the guide grooves. If you hear this sound, stop immediately and try turning on the camera.