Camera focus modes and settings can easily be confusing for beginners. Meticulously reading the camera's instruction manual can be quite tedious. In addition, it may not always give the proper result the first time. Where to start mastering focus modes? Let's break down the basics and make the process of learning the camera's focus modes easier. 
The photo above illustrates the most important aspect when deciding on the focus mode - a conscious choice. I consciously focused on the subject's closest eye to me. Not on her arm in the foreground or background. And certainly not in the background. I chose exactly what I would like to be the sharpest in the photo. The camera didn't make that decision, but I did. This is the secret to choosing a focus mode - to be aware of your choice.
Based on this principle, we will go through the focus modes available in your camera and see which one will be the best choice in a given situation.
First of all, we will need to consider three interrelated aspects:
A) Existing focus modes– such as Single Frame (Single) or Continuous (Servo / Continuous).
B) How do you activate autofocus (AF):
- By pressing and holding the shutter button, or
- Push button
. The so-called Back Button Focusing Method.
AT this case your choice will determine whether you use Single or Continuous autofocus.
C) AF area selection– how the AF points you select will be grouped.
In photographs with a shallow depth of field, you must clearly choose the point to focus on. Your decision must be conscious at every stage of the image creation.
Focus modes
Regardless of which manufacturer's camera you are using - Canon, Nikon, Sony, Fuji, Pentax or Olympus- focus modes can be divided into three types:
- Manual focus You do all the work of focusing the camera yourself.
- Single focus (Single / One-shot focusing mode / AF-S) – Best choice for shooting static subjects: the camera focuses and locks the focus.
- Continuous focus (Servo / AI Servo / Continuous focusing mode / AF-C) – Best choice for shooting moving subjects as the camera continuously adjusts focus.
The choice between Single and Continuous focus mode becomes more convenient when using the Back button focusing method, which we will return to in a moment.
The selection of the AF area can vary from a single point to merging them into an area. Options for this grouping vary depending on the brands and models of cameras. The AF area selection affects how quickly autofocus can focus on the specific area of the image you select.
Manual focus
Compared to various autofocus modes, manual focusing is extremely simple - you rotate the focus ring until the subject is in focus. That's all.
Manual focus is preferred in several situations:
- When shooting movies when you cannot use autofocus. Although more and more models are now appearing on the market that support autofocus when recording video, autofocus does not always work correctly in them. So for video shooting, manual focus is still relevant.
- Photography of architecture, food, and other static subjects that you are most likely to work with.
The cameras offer various ways to assist with manual focusing. For example, you can zoom in on the LCD in Live View mode or use the focus peaking feature. If you plan to use manual focus, check out what your camera has to offer in this area.
Single-shot focusing mode (Single / One-shot focusing mode / AF-S)
In single focus mode, the camera focuses and stops. Focus is locked as long as you keep the shutter button pressed. If you decide to refocus, you will need to re-activate by pressing the shutter button or the AF-ON button again.
This autofocus mode is the exact opposite of Continuous autofocus, in which the camera constantly adjusts focus.
Intelligent Focus / AI Focus (Canon) - Auto / AF-A (Nikon)
In this mode, the camera uses single-frame focusing if there is no movement in the scene being shot. As soon as there is movement, the camera switches to continuous focus.
How do you activate autofocus?
You can lock focus using the shutter button or
You can lock/activate focus with the AF-ON button.
Choosing between these two methods of triggering and locking autofocus will determine which focus mode suits your shooting style best.
Focusing with the shutter button
The most common way to start and lock autofocus is to press the shutter button halfway down.
The side effect of this method is that now your focusing method is linked to the camera shutter. If you think about it, the time it takes to take a picture is not really related to focus. These are separate processes.
Rear Button Focus (RCF) / AF-ON Button
With the AF-ON button, you can separate the functions of focusing and taking a picture. Thus, freeing the shutter button from the start function and autofocus lock.
Check your camera's manual to find out what user settings allow you to reassign the autofocus start and lock function to the AF-ON button.
Selecting a back-button focus method—usually the AF-ON button—will change how autofocus is triggered and locked. Instead of pressing the shutter button halfway to start and lock autofocus, you need to press the AF-ON button and when the camera focuses, release it to lock autofocus.
Normally, FZK uses continuous focusing in combination with autofocus start / lock using the AF-ON button. Thus, you can constantly monitor the movement, and open the shutter at the right time. Or you can shoot portraits (or still subjects) by locking autofocus by simply releasing the AF-ON button. Simply put, to take a portrait, you activate autofocus by pressing the AF-ON button, and when the camera focuses, release the AF-ON button. The camera will not refocus until you activate autofocus again.
In some cases, this method has certain advantages.
For example, if you are photographing an awards ceremony and the recipients are standing in the same spot each time, the FZK method works very well - you don't have to refocus every time because the camera and lens are focused at the same point as before. this. Also, you don't have to keep your finger on the AF-Lock button all the time, because with FLC, focus is locked when you release the AF-ON button.
This is the elegant ease of use of the FCC method. However, no matter how hard I tried, I couldn't get used to this method, so I still use the shutter button to lock and hold autofocus.
AF area selection
All cameras allow you to group AF points into areas, as an alternative to using a single AF point. How the autofocus areas will be located, and how many focus points will be included in them, depends on the specific camera model. Check your camera manual for details.
Selecting a point or area depends on whether your camera uses cross-type autofocus sensors or not.
Cross type sensors are capable of focusing on both horizontal and vertical lines. Usually only a few sensors in the center are cross-type sensors.
This circumstance should be taken into account when choosing AF points.
This is why AF sensors that lie outside the central area are not so easy to use in many cases. Of course, in this case, blocking autofocus and then recomposing the frame may seem like an excellent option. But this technique also has drawbacks.
Let's go back to the idea of informed choice:
If you're photographing a scene with moving subjects, especially one where subjects move erratically, it's best to select an area rather than a single AF point. This choice can also be useful if you let the camera select the AF point on its own.
For portraits, it is preferable to use single-point focusing and choose the point where you would like to focus. These are usually the model's eyes, or the closest eye to you.
If, when taking the photo posted at the very beginning of the article, I had chosen the AF area, and not a specific point, then most likely the hand closest to us would be in focus. Not the most the best choice. So the decision of where to focus should be left up to me.
Focus lock and recompose
If the subject is not in the center, then you have two options to focus and lock focus:
- Use appropriate, off-center AF points (but if they are not cross-type, you may run into some problems), or
- Focus on the center point, lock focus and recompose the frame.
Another situation where you can use the focus lock and recompose technique is when there is strong backlighting in the scene and the camera is having trouble autofocusing. The photo below is a typical example of such a case:
I shot this photo directly into the sun, and I almost went blind from the bright light and sweat in my eyes - so I had to take a series of shots, moving a little to the side. All this was done to make sure that I get at least a few clear shots.
I prefocused on the couple, then locked the autofocus and recomposed the shot. The depth of field at f/7.1 was enough for this photo to eliminate any focus error caused by recomposition.
This is how we approach the potential problem of the focus lock and recompose technique - when you move the camera to change the composition of the shot, you run the risk of shifting the plane of focus too much.
If your lens has a perfectly flat focusing plane, then as soon as you move the camera even a small distance in order to change the composition of the frame, the focusing distance, of course, will remain the same, but the focusing plane will move along with the camera.
So if you've recomposed so that your subject is now off-center, the plane of focus may be slightly behind it. As a result, you will end up with a photo that looks a little blurry (this may look like the result of a back focus lens, but the reason is completely different here).
Shifting the focus plane when using the focus lock and recompose method is not a serious problem, for example, when shooting close-up portraits with a telephoto lens. In this case, moving the camera away from the model's eyes to change the composition will be negligible and barely affect the plane of focus, and the DOF will most likely cover up any minor focusing flaws with ease.
But at wide apertures when using a wide-angle lens, this becomes a potentially serious problem: when you rotate the body to change the composition, the focusing distance cannot remain correct. It directly depends on how much you move the camera, what depth of field you have, and also on the curvature of the focal plane of your lens.
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Many aspiring photographers, first taking serious camera hands, have difficulty adjusting the focus system. And the understanding that the autofocus mode must be chosen from the condition that you are photographing is sometimes terrifying. I want to note right away that the autofocus modes and settings on different cameras from different manufacturers are approximately the same. They may differ in name, location, or be managed differently, but the principle is the same everywhere. So what is the focus of autofocus? Let's find out!
First you need to study the instructions for your camera, the "Focus" section (this is how it is called in Nikon cameras, other manufacturers may have options) and make sure that autofocus is enabled on your camera. On advanced cameras, there is a separate switch on which there is an M mode (manual focus) and some other modes - different autofocus, or just AF.
Autofocus mode switch on the body of an "advanced" camera
The M (Manual) mode works in the same way as the cameras worked in the pre-autofocus period. If your camera does not have such a switch on the body, then the autofocus modes on your camera are controlled through the menu.
In addition, autofocus lenses with a built-in motor also have an autofocus switch, very often marked M / A - M. Make sure that the lens is also in auto focus mode. Do not confuse the type of this switch with the AF-S autofocus mode, these are different things, although they are called the same.
Focus mode switch on the lens barrel
What are the autofocus modes
AF-A (Auto) . Fully auto mode, in which the camera "decides" itself how to focus. This mode in professional cameras missing, it is most often chosen by beginners who do not know which mode they need.
AF-S (Single) . Mode for static, slow-moving scenes. In this mode, the camera focuses once by half-pressing the halfway shutter button or the button if your camera has one. more camera does not focus until you release the button. This option is preferred when shooting landscapes and portraits.
At the same time, in the camera menu in the autofocus section, from the focus or shutter values, I would recommend choosing "Focus".
AF-C (Continuous) . Tracking mode, where the camera constantly tracks the subject and adjusts autofocus continuously until you release the shutter button. Turns on when you press the shutter button halfway. This mode is activated when photographing sports events and sequential shooting.
At the same time, in the camera menu in the autofocus section, from the values focus, release + focus or release, I would recommend choosing medium, release + focus, and if your camera has a separate AF-ON button that you need to get used to using, then the shutter value.
Selecting focus modes in the amateur camera menu
In addition, you still have to choose the type of autofocus area.
Autofocus zones and areas
Typically, the camera offers three options for focus areas, the setting of which is carried out either through the menu (in cameras entry level), or a separate lever on the body of the advanced camera.
Selecting the focus area of a professional camera
Selecting the focus area in the amateur camera menu
white rectangle . This is an automatic mode, the camera "decides itself" which autofocus points to use. Normally the focus is on the nearest subject. If you are in doubt which mode to use, then choose it. In AF-S mode, the AF points where the image is in focus will be highlighted, while in AF-C mode nothing will be highlighted.
crosshair . This is the dynamic zone mode, used when photographing moving subjects and requires further adjustment, which is described below. The crosshair only works dynamically in AF-C mode, in AF-S mode it is the same as focusing on a point, which you will learn about in a little below. In dynamic mode, you select the focus point, and the further behavior of the autofocus system depends on the selected area (points) of autofocus.
Dot. You simply focus on the selected point, and select the point with the selector, which you usually use to scroll through photos or the camera menu. It's very handy when you know exactly what needs to be guaranteed in focus, such as the eyes when photographing a portrait.
The AF area for dynamic mode (crosshair) depends on the specific focusing system of the camera, more specifically how many AF points are available on the camera. The more expensive the camera, the more points. The RGB sensor is responsible for controlling the autofocus zones.
Conditionally, the areas can be divided into two types:
Multiple sensors (AF area). Focus information comes not only from the sensor you have selected, but also from the points around it, and neighboring sensors in the viewfinder are not highlighted in any way. For example, in my Nikon D700, you can select a zone from 9, 21 or 51 points. Usually, the faster something moves in the frame, the more area is required.
3D tracking. This mode on different models is used with different focus areas, usually a crosshair or a rectangle. As the name implies, this is a tracking mode, which takes into account not only the distance to the subject, but also the contrast of the subject. You select the focus point with the selector, focus the camera, and then the focus begins to follow the object if it moves, or you turn the camera.
The fundamental difference between AF-Area and 3D-tracking is that in the first case, the camera focuses on what falls into the selected autofocus area, and in the second, the camera shifts the area behind the object by switching autofocus sensors. This differs from AF-S mode in that AF-S is not aware if the subject has moved farther or closer during framing.
In addition, 3D tracking can even replace single focus point selection. Instead of scrolling through the points with the selector until you get to the right one, you can simply focus on the center one in 3D mode and then frame the frame as you wish - the camera will keep focus on the object by moving the focus point by points. In this case, the object will not be able to escape from autofocus. True, focusing accuracy cannot be guaranteed.
That's the whole point of autofocus. All photographic to you!
Details Updated: 28 May 2016In this article, you will learn how to use autofocus, what modes it has, why the photo is “out of focus”, blurry, how to avoid it and how to make photos as clear as possible!
Autofocus modes
First, let's talk about what autofocus modes are in most modern cameras (as well as in some phones and camcorders). So, how do we set up autofocus ...
"One-Shot AF" mode ("One-Shot AF" forCanon or "AF-S" yNikon)
Best suited for shooting still subjects or focusing first and then recomposing the shot if necessary. When you press the shutter button halfway, the camera locks focus until you either release the button or press it all the way down.
"Tracking, continuous autofocus" mode ("AI Servo AF" forCanon or "AF-C"Nikon)
Good for photographing moving subjects. Or if it’s the other way around, you are moving :) For example, if you are taking pictures from the window of a moving vehicle. While the shutter button is pressed halfway, the focus will change automatically depending on the movement of objects in the frame, autofocus will, as it were, “follow” these objects.
"Intelligent autofocus" mode ("AI Focus AF" forCanon or "AF-A"Nikon)
Used to automatically switch the autofocus mode. It is present in many SLR cameras and, in my opinion, is rather inconvenient - it's hard to guess how it will behave, as a “tracking” or as a “single-frame”.
Manual focus mode
Usually, this mode is used - when autofocus fails, or for special creative tasks. In order to focus manually (switch to manual focus mode), it is usually necessary to use the corresponding switch on the camera lens (especially if we are talking about a camera with interchangeable lenses).
Focus point/area selection
If you use autofocus, then in most cameras you can choose which part of the viewfinder (which “point”) will be focused on.
- Fully automatic focus and automatic selection of focus points. In this mode, the camera usually focuses on the closest object in the frame. In this case, the points that were actually selected for focusing are likely to be marked / highlighted in the viewfinder when focusing ends.
- Focusing on the center point. This mode is available on most cameras, regardless of manufacturer (Canon, Nikon, and others), and is often present not only in SLRs, but also in compact digital cameras.
The peculiarity of this focus mode is that the camera will focus only on the object that is in the very center of the viewfinder. This can be useful for focusing more precisely on the subject being photographed.
When choosing this type of focus, the photographer usually does the following: points the center of the viewfinder at the object being photographed, half-presses the shutter button (on most cameras this leads to autofocus lock) and then selects a good composition using the viewfinder, being sure that his camera is focused properly. - Focus on the selected point.
When this autofocus mode is selected, the focus will be on the point in the viewfinder that the photographer points to. This dot is usually highlighted in the viewfinder. In some of the most advanced cameras, you can simply touch the viewfinder screen in the appropriate place to select the focus point. In most SLR cameras, there is a joystick for this, or buttons that replace it, or a disk (“wheel”).
How is it applied in practice? Let me explain! For example, when shooting a portrait, so that focusing occurs precisely on the eyes of a fashion model - the photographer can choose a focus point - which in this moment"superimposed" on the model's eye, otherwise it may turn out that the camera will automatically focus not on the eyes, but on the nose ... - Other options. The three main options for selecting focus areas are listed above. But each specific camera can have more options. Nikon cameras are especially diverse in this regard.
Autofocus and focus points.
We can see such a picture in the instructions for the Nikon D7000 camera.
AF illuminator
If the subject you are shooting is too poorly lit, then the autofocus illuminator comes to the rescue! In low light conditions (in the dark), the built-in flash of your camera will automatically open and try to dispel the darkness! If you don't need it, turn off the autofocus illuminator in the menu of your camera (you can refer to its instructions), or switch to manual focus mode (the focus illuminator is most often also turned off).
Problems with Auto Focus
"Why isn't he focusing?" “Why is it focusing in the wrong place?” "Why is autofocus so slow?" Such questions are asked by many novice amateur photographers!
The instructions for the Nikon D7000 camera have a wonderful illustration showing scenes - in which autofocus can not demonstrate its best side.
Autofocus may be difficult in the following situations...
In cases #2 and #5 - I recommend choosing a central focus point and trying to focus with it - aiming EXACTLY at the subject. Then, autofocus is unlikely to fail! In other cases, if the choice of the center focus point does not help, you should switch to manual mode. However, for example, in my practice, difficulties in cases 3, 4 and 6 were extremely rare.
Adjustment, constant autofocus correction
But it also happens that even in favorable conditions, autofocus always focuses either a little closer than necessary, or a little farther! Most often, SLR cameras "suffer" from this, especially after changing the lens. The reason may be in the lens, then you can adjust it a little in the service center. This adjustment is called "adjustment". But in some modern cameras, the adjustment / focus correction function for selected lenses is already built-in, and you can start it by reading the instruction manual first. However, this is not often necessary.
If anything in the above information is not clear - please ask questions in the comments!
© Karpin Anton 2016
You will still need time to explore all its features. Users usually read the instructions for the device only at the first acquaintance, and then only sometimes turn to it in especially difficult situations. Often, with this approach, a number of functions remain unexplored, as a result of which the pictures are not at all what we would like. For example, exceptionally precise focusing is required condition good shot. If you understand the difference between the different ones and learn how to use them, you can achieve amazing sharpness in every photo.
Typically, the camera has two or three focus modes. In each case, they give the device instructions on how to focus, and this will depend on what you are shooting. We will focus on the two most popular brands - Canon and Nikon, but by and large this information will be relevant for most models from different manufacturers.
One Shot or AF-single
The first mode is called one shot(Canon) or AF-single(Nikon). In this mode, as soon as you start pressing the shutter button, the camera focuses on the subject, highlights it in the viewfinder, and locks in that position. Thus, the focus is set. You can then either take a photo by pressing the shutter button all the way down, or change by moving the camera. This mode is well suited for shooting still subjects and is used in landscape, portrait and macro photography (in clear weather).
AI Servo or AF-continuous
The second mode is known as AI Servo(Canon) or AF continuous(Nikon). In this mode, when the shutter button is pressed halfway, the camera constantly refocuses, depending on where the subject is. Therefore, the mode is suitable if you want to shoot an object approaching you or moving away from you. Not surprisingly, this mode is also used in sports photography.
AI Focus or AF-auto
Some cameras offer a third mode, designed for shooting in changing conditions, when you have to shoot fast-moving and stationary subjects. It is called AI Focus(Canon) or AF auto(Nikon). In this case, the camera quickly switches between One Shot and AI Servo modes depending on the situation. For example, if you shoot a stationary object, the camera will focus on it, but if it suddenly starts moving, the device will quickly switch and adjust to the movement. This is convenient, for example, for shooting a football match. You focus on the goalkeeper, who is standing still, but at that moment the ball flies into the goal and movement begins. The camera will immediately react and the goalkeeper will remain in focus.
In any case, it is important to know that digital cameras usually have, except for the simplest One Shot. Without knowing this, you can try to shoot a flying bird as much as you like - all your efforts will be unsuccessful if you choose the wrong mode. But it is worth turning on the AI Servo or AI Focus mode, as your attempt will most likely be crowned with success. We hope this article for beginner photographers will help you avoid common mistakes.
Focusing can't be easy. Using any of the main shooting modes - auto, portrait or landscape - your camera does all the work for you. But it's too easy, and not professional. Everything seemed simple, you should press the shutter button halfway, focus and take a picture. Then why do many pictures come out blurry and blurry? The answer is that the autofocus system does work, but not always the way we want it to.
Usually, in reflex camera, entry-level or mid-range, there are nine focus points that are scattered at a certain distance from each other.
There is always one AF point in the center, then two points above and below, and three points each on the right and left sides, two of which are at the same level, and one is pressed to the edge of the frame. More advanced cameras have an additional six points, although these, unlike the first nine, cannot be manually selected.
How autofocus works
To achieve autofocus when shooting in various camera modes, information from all nine AF points is used. The camera determines the distance from each part of the scene from the camera, selects the closest subject that matches the AF point, and locks autofocus at that position.
This is normal and very useful if you want to focus on the nearest objects in the frame, but that's not always the case, is it? Suppose you are filming beautiful landscape, but you want to focus on the flower that is in the foreground. What to do in this case? - In such cases, it is better to select the manual focus mode.
Various focus options
Automatic point selection
By default, your DSLR will use all AF points in every shooting mode, but you can often select the focus points manually. Press the AF point select button, namely the button on the top right corner of the back of the camera (the location may vary depending on the camera brand) and a confirmation will appear on the screen that Auto Select is now using multi-point AF.
Single point focus mode
To switch between auto focus and manual focus, press the focus point selector button as in the previous step, but then press Set. The camera will now enter single focus mode. To return to multipoint mode, do the same.
Changing focus points
You are not limited to using only the center focus point in manual control mode. After switching to single-point auto mode, you can use the arrow keys to select any other available focus point. To return to the center point, press the "Set" button again.
Focus modes
The focus point selection guide works in any focus mode, so you can use either one point or multiple points depending on whether you are shooting a still or moving subject. Choose the most suitable focus mode.
When to Use Which Focus Point
Automatic selection
If you want to focus on the nearest subject and need to quickly react to what is happening around you, Auto Select mode is a great option for you. This saves time, since in this case you will not be busy choosing one or another point, in addition, it is good to shoot moving objects in this mode.
Center focus point
The center focus point is the most light sensitive and most accurate of the bunch, so it's great for use in very low light levels, or vice versa in very bright light. While using other points may lead to worse results. The center point is also ideal when the main subject is in the center of the frame.
Upper focus point
When you are photographing a landscape and it is important for you to focus on the more distant objects and areas of the scene rather than the foreground, it is best to use the top focus point. In this case, the foreground objects will be more blurred, and the objects that are far away will be clear and sharp.
Focus point diagonal
Portraits are especially good when the subject is not in the center of the frame, but slightly to the side. When shooting a portrait, either in landscape or portrait orientation, select the appropriate focus points diagonally and focus on one of the subject's eyes. If the face is screwed in three quarters, then focus on the eye that is closest to the camera.
Boundary focus points
Focus points located at the far left and right of the frame are very handy when you want to blur the foreground image and sharpen certain objects further away at the edges of the shot.
How to choose the best AF point
While nine possible focus points will be more than enough for most of us, high-end cameras like the Canon EOS-1D X come with an incredible 61 focus points. You can even select multiple focus points in small groups.
With so many focus points, choosing the best point can be tricky. It often seems that the easiest way is to use the center focus point, focus, then lightly press the shutter button to achieve focus.
You can lock focus settings by holding down the shutter button, compose your shot, and then fully press the shutter button to take a picture. This often works, but it may not always be the best option.
The main problem with using only the center focus point is that the lighting information and exposure value are set at the same time. That is, for example, you focus first on an object that is in the shade, and then quickly switch to an object that is in the sun, then the image will be overexposed.
Fix point
You can press AE Lock, then compose your shot so the camera can take into account constantly changing lighting conditions. While doing this, you should keep holding down the shutter button to keep the focus locked.
But it's usually easier to choose an AF point that's closer to the area you want to focus on, so any subsequent camera movement will be minimal.