Pros and cons of the profession. Own sewing production. The main pros and cons Pros and cons characteristics of the profession of a seamstress

Nowadays, there are not so many professions in which the representatives of the female half of humanity could fully realize their creative abilities. One of these is perfect for women who are forced to stay at home for one reason or another. What is this profession? Seamstress.

Making clothes to order will be a good additional source of income, and in some cases it can be the main job.

Description of the profession

This specialization has always been in high demand. After all, people want to always look beautiful and fashionable. And who else will help them in this, if not a seamstress? Most often, representatives of this profession make a variety of products: shirts, children's clothing, blouses, coats, underwear.

Many people mistakenly think that seamstresses only do tailoring. But that's not the case at all. After all, they can also make leather goods, shoes, as well as car and other covers. Bags are also the work of seamstresses.

What are the responsibilities?

In general, what is the profession of a seamstress useful for? Of course, the fact that you can sew not only to order, earning money, but also dress yourself, as well as the whole family. In simple terms, a seamstress is a woman who knows how to sew. And this applies not only to working on a typewriter, but also to making by hand.

Needlewomen who have little experience are engaged in the simplest operations on a typewriter or sew on accessories. And professional seamstresses are already engaged in tailoring clothes to order, while developing their own unique models of clothes. If this profession is chosen, the seamstress must be able to work with different materials. Another necessary skill is good handling of the machine. You need to be able to adjust the degree of thread tension, as well as monitor the frequency of the line.

Today it is a very common profession. A seamstress can always find a description of models and patterns in specialized literature or create it herself. She can easily choose the direction that she likes more.

Also, someone wants to work on a large one and do monotonous routine work, for example, processing loops or sewing on pockets. Here you need to be part of a large team. Others choose a small atelier where they can work with colleagues or on their own.

A large number of women whose profession after training is indicated in the document as "seamstress" become private entrepreneurs and work at home, turning one of the rooms into their workshop. In this case, they have to be both cutters and dressmakers. As you can see, this profession is suitable for any woman, since there are many types of activities.

Personal qualities

In order for a woman to become a professional seamstress, she needs to develop accuracy, perseverance, patience and dexterity. It is necessary to be emotionally stable, balanced and not be afraid of monotonous and routine work. The specialist must have an accurate eye, good eyesight and excellent coordination of hand movements.

Since this is a creative profession (seamstress), the description of duties in which contains many points, it implies the presence of artistic taste. After all, customers should love the product. Therefore, you need to develop communication skills and a rich imagination.

The ability to quickly switch attention from one operation to another is also valued in this profession.

So, here is a list of qualities that a representative of the profession needs to possess, regardless of the chosen direction:

The ability to do all the work very carefully.
Correctly follow all the instructions that were offered.
Timely hand over finished products.
Perform all work exactly with orders.
Have good taste and excellent memory.
Treat the matter with full responsibility.

Education

What is vocational training? A seamstress receives the necessary skills and knowledge most often in courses. Therefore, it will be enough for everyone who wants to be engaged in the manufacture of clothes to undergo a not very long training. Vocational technical schools train seamstresses who will later be able to work in ateliers and factories. It also happens that an enterprise engaged in tailoring takes on apprentices who are trained and left to work.

What is the career program? A seamstress must pass not only practical classes, but also theory. After all, good specialists are required to be well versed in fabrics, as well as to know the entire production technology. Care sewing machines, lubricating their parts - this also applies to the duties of a seamstress, which she must be able to perform correctly.

Advantages and disadvantages of the profession

Like any other profession, this one also has its pros and cons. Many women cannot stand the loud noise that is in the shop. It often results in hearing loss. Problems with the eyes and spine are also occupational diseases of seamstresses. Many complain about the relatively small opportunity to communicate with people.

But the pluses include the ability to inexpensively and beautifully dress yourself and the whole family. In addition, the training is very affordable. This profession can be a good side job in case of lack of money.

Wage

The remuneration of a seamstress depends on the complexity of the work performed, how many products are made and what is the scale of production. On average, seamstresses in the Moscow region receive up to 40 thousand rubles, and in other regions wage ranges from 20 to 30 thousand. But if you have a lot of experience and excellent artistic taste, then you can sew dresses that are very expensive.

Seamstress- a specialist whose duties include the creation of various kinds of garments (clothes, shoes, leather goods, covers, hats and other accessories) using specialized equipment. The profession is suitable for those who are interested in world artistic culture and work and economy (see the choice of profession for interest in school subjects).

There is a common misconception that seamstress and tailor are just two different names for the same profession, but in reality they are not. The difference is that the tailor implements all the steps of creating textile products(from cutting to sewing), and the seamstress specializes exclusively in tailoring. Most often, its tasks include the implementation of a specific procedure at one stage or another of the garment production - for example, the processing of parts.

Responsibilities

carrying out operations for tailoring and production of various products from fabrics, knitwear, leather and other materials;
adjustment of stitch frequency and thread tension;
management of universal and special sewing equipment;
maintenance of sewing machines and repair of minor equipment malfunctions;
cut quality control;
checking the conformity of accessories to the color and purpose of the product;
finishing of finished products, their cleaning and wet-heat treatment;
compliance with safety regulations at work.

Pros and cons of the profession

pros

you can dress yourself and your whole family;
affordable training;
the possibility of creative self-realization (upon obtaining additional education).

Minuses

high level of background noise in the workshop in the case of work at a large enterprise;
there is a risk of visual impairment, because due to the specifics professional activity the seamstress has to constantly strain her eyes;
there is also a risk of developing or aggravating diseases of the spine, since the work is sedentary;
monotonous actions;
lack of communication with people.

Professionally important qualities

accuracy;
patience;
attention to details;
good hand-eye coordination;
dexterity;
artistic taste.

Where to study seamstress

The knowledge and skills required for this job are taught in specialized technological colleges and technical schools or at professional courses. Since the primary task in training is to master practical skills, distance education is not provided. The exception is higher education obtained after graduating from a secondary specialized institution in this profile.

Educational institutions

Moscow College of Light Industry No. 5.
Technological college of sewing profile.
Higher Vocational School of Sewing Design. (Moscow)
Russian Correspondence Institute of Textile and Light Industry. (Moscow)
Moscow State University design and technology.
St. Petersburg State University of Technology and Design.

Places of work

Clothing factories and enterprises.
Atelier for repair and tailoring.
Shops selling fabrics.
Educational establishments.
Own business.

Salary

Salary as of 08.08.2019

Russia 20000—65000 ₽

Moscow 35000—65000 ₽

The salary of a seamstress can vary depending on her qualifications and the specifics of the work performed and ranges from 35 to 70 thousand rubles. and higher.

Career steps and prospects

The professional growth of a seamstress is marked by the assignment of another qualification category starting with the first and ending with the sixth.

Beginners most often perform the simplest operations on sewing equipment or sew on accessories. Seamstresses who have reached a high level are engaged in more hard work- tucking sleeves, connecting individual parts of the future product, etc.

In addition, a seamstress can acquire additional skills in preparing drawings and patterns for various things, as well as cutting out details, which will allow her to invent her own unique models of shoes, clothes, etc. In this case, there is an opportunity to realize her talents by organizing her own business and accepting individual orders from customers at home.

In the process of direct communication with the customer, the seamstress, if necessary, provides professional advice on the choice of style and selection of materials that best suit the customer.

Another way of professional development is to get higher education. So, the training program "designing light industry products" gives great opportunities for improvement in the profession and includes several specializations: the history of fashion, the technology of manufacturing garments, the development of collections of clothes or shoes, the modeling and design of various products, the creation of drawings and patterns, etc.

Tailoring is a creative profession in the field of providing services to the population, which is gaining more and more popularity in the labor market. In the profession of a tailor, a number of specializations can be distinguished: a specialist in tailoring outerwear, light clothing, leather goods, fur, etc. A tailor makes garments for various purposes and for various categories population. Makes alterations of products, participates in the launch of new models in production. All works are divided into manual and machine. The task of the tailor is cutting and joining certain components from fabrics. Since ancient times, the working tools of a tailor have been a needle, thread, scissors, and since the 19th century, a sewing machine has become increasingly used.

A tailor differs from a seamstress by a higher qualification, he can sew a product from beginning to end, including cutting products according to ready-made patterns, transferring chalk lines, doubling with cushioning materials, marking control lines and signs, and other operations, while a seamstress specializes in performing some kind of then one operation of sewing production - for example, it processes all the details or only a certain assembly of a garment on a sewing machine (seamstress-minder).

History of the profession

History of tailoring

A modern suit is the fruit of the efforts of the most different professions. A fashion designer designs new costume forms. The designer-designer develops constructive bases for manufacturing patterns of these forms. The process engineer thinks about the best technological process making future clothes. Tailors are engaged in direct tailoring of the developed products. The profession of a tailor has an ancient history, and at all times it was considered very honorable, because the performing talent and taste of these masters depended appearance and ordinary citizens, and the most high-ranking persons. This was due to the fact that, until the end of the 19th century, tailors were engaged in all stages of making clothes - from designing models to sewing and decorating them.

The secrets of tailoring have been accumulated over thousands of years. Clothing originated in the early stages of the development of human society. Ancient man used clothes both as "a small dwelling, that is, shelter from the weather, and as protection from the forces of nature." The first forms of clothing were determined by the shape of the human body, his way of life. At the early stages of the development of human society, clothing was uncut and unsewn and consisted of the simplest coverings in the form of capes, loincloths made from animal skins, leaves, feathers, soft tree bark and plant fibers and fixed on protruding parts of the body. Man in the Paleolithic era 40-25 thousand years ago already knew how, using bone needles, to sew, weave and bind various natural materials in order to give them the desired shape. The invention of the bone needle was the first step towards the creation of tight-fitting clothing.

Next milestone was the appearance of tissues. Most likely, weaving originated in the early Neolithic, when people first learned to grow plants and breed wool-producing animals. The labor process contributed to the emergence of more comfortable, rational forms of adjacent clothing, obtained by cutting and sewing covers for certain parts of the body, made from more advanced materials. In the primitive communities and early class societies of the Ancient East, there was a rationally thought-out distribution of labor between men and women. As a rule, women were engaged in making clothes: they spun threads, wove fabrics, sewed leathers and skins, decorated clothes with embroidery, appliqué, etc. For household needs, women spun and wove at home, and huge workshops existed at temples and palaces. Weaving was originally the occupation of women, and only with the development of commodity production did it become the lot of male artisans. For example, in Ancient Greece in the era of Hellenism, with the development of commodity production, large workshops arose - ergasteria, where male artisans worked. In these workshops, there was already a division of labor between slave workers. In imperial Rome, artisans were united in colleges, which had a narrow specialization. In the era of the empire, male artisans worked in weaving workshops - textiles. In the VIII-IX centuries, more stable states were formed, the largest of which was the empire of the Franks under Charlemagne. It was the "pre-urban" period, when the craft existed as part of a subsistence economy. The craft was mainly done by dependent peasants, who paid dues with pieces of linen or woolen fabric, as well as ready-made clothes. According to Charlemagne's Capitulary of Villas, shoemakers, spinners, weavers and dressmakers in special workshops - geniuses, along with other specialists, must have worked on the royal estate. Around the same time, itinerant craftsmen appeared - tailors and shoemakers who went from village to village and carried out orders from local residents. With such specialization, the quality of clothing manufacturing became higher than in the peasant economy. From the 9th century in France, the iron is known, which has become as indispensable a tailor's tool as scissors and a needle. In the XIII century, a spinning wheel with a wheel, a loom with a mechanism, a felting machine were distributed.

The spread of workshops contributed to the development of urban crafts. It was possible to obtain the title of master only after many years of study. As a rule, poor parents gave their son to the master for training, paying a small fee. The master had to feed and teach the student the basic skills of the craft. The training went hand in hand with production process according to the principle: "I show, and you repeat after me." At first, they taught how to handle a needle and thread, since all operations were performed only by hand. The boys then learned the complex art of tailoring. Some became embroiderers: the decoration of the costume, especially in the XIV-XVII centuries, was quite heavy. physical work. Girls were taught in special workshops to weave and knit lace, to make embroidery on light fabrics. The course was long and difficult. Beating and using students as free servants can be called obligatory pedagogical methods. After a certain period (from 5 to 8 years), the council of the workshop elevated the student to an apprentice. The apprentice did not have the right to marry, received a small salary and could move on to another master of the same workshop. The master had to teach the apprentice the secrets of craftsmanship (this was monitored by the workshop council). The training ended, and the student was awarded the title of master after he himself sewed and trimmed a real costume. In all craft workshops, this “ graduate work"was called" a masterpiece. Then the newly-made master could stay to work with the owner as an apprentice, open his own business or become a wandering tailor, moving from one castle to another and offering his services to noble gentlemen. In the XI-XII centuries, workshops of weavers and tailors were formed. Since the 12th century, homespun fabrics have been worn only in the countryside.

Design history

The design of clothing arose with the advent of the cut in clothing. The simplest design was characterized by the clothes of the ancient Greeks and Romans (uncut draped), which were pieces of fabric of various lengths and widths, wrapping the human body and emphasizing its harmony. The details of clothing in their form approached simple geometric shapes - a rectangle (chiton), a circle (cloak), a rhombus (toga).

The Cretan-Mycenaean women's costume among aristocrats was refined and rich. The perfectly designed cut was designed to emphasize the features of the female figure - high breasts, thin waist, lush wide hips. The narrow jacket and deep neckline of the dress left the chest naked, and the tight lacing lifted it as much as possible. It still remains a mystery how such elaborate costumes were created. A little later, clothes sewn from rectangular pieces of fabric appeared, the so-called consignment note - deaf, worn over the head, like a Roman tunic, which served as the basis for tunic-shaped shirts, and swinging with a slit from the front from top to bottom. The fabric panels were bent and sewn on the sides, leaving holes for the hands and cutting a hole in the center for the head. Such a primitive cut existed until the 11th century. An example of clothing of a similar design in our time is the clothing of the peoples of the North, Central Asia, etc. The shirt cut of clothing was also common in Ancient Russia. According to experts, cut clothes first appeared among the northern peoples, and then among the southern ones.

The first attempts to make clothes that repeat the shape of the human body with the help of a cut were noted in the East, but the cut was developed in Europe, where the differences that arose in the understanding of male and female beauty required the creation of tight-fitting clothing. It was much more difficult to “fit” such clothes on a figure without creases and wrinkles, and cut and seams come to the rescue.

By the beginning of the 12th century, three seams appeared in the dress - the side and middle back seams. The lacing offered along the side seams did not provide beautiful shapes, so the idea of dividing the clothes into parts appeared.

The design of the form of clothing developed especially intensively in the XIII-XIV centuries, when it began to approach the forms of the human body. In the XIII century, as noted by European chroniclers, "the dominance of the needle and scissors" began. In other words, the production of clothes passed into the hands of professional tailors. The word "tailor" itself is short for "tailor shvets", that is, one who sews ports, trousers from coarse linen. It is interesting that, for example, in the Ukrainian language, a designation like the same profession "kravets" referred to the master more highly qualified than just a “shvets” - to one who, in addition, knew how to cut clothes.

By the 14th century, according to experts, the theory of clothing design was born. In the era of the Middle Ages, in clothes (following the example of detachable knightly armor), the forms of flat parts (back, front, sleeves) corresponding to the shapes of individual parts of the figure were found in a practical way. Darts appeared, the armhole and sleeve lines became oval. The sleeves were for a long time an independent piece of clothing and were connected to the product by lacing on the braid, the pants were also not sewn, but put on each leg separately (often made in different colors).

In the 14th century, the waist line divided the dress into a bodice and a skirt, linen appeared. The Middle Ages was the time of formation various kinds cut, existing and at the present time. There were the first signs of fashion. In the XII-XIII centuries, a new social phenomenon arose in the cities of Western Europe - fashion, which made it possible to designate social status by more flexible and mobile means than custom and law. Already from the second half of the XII century, the shape and cut of clothes began to change in accordance with the requirements of fashion, because in the Gothic era, much attention began to be paid to the features of the cut of clothes. Since that time, the social status of a person is indicated not only by the cost of fabric, the splendor of decorations and decorations, but also by the cut of clothing, which must meet the requirements of changing fashion. The appearance of fashion was associated with the development of urban culture, the emergence of a need for superficial and short communication. The town squares and cramped streets of medieval towns became the place where merchants and wanderers met; pilgrims who visited holy places, and knights who returned from the Crusades; townspeople and peasants from the surrounding villages. It was in the cities that new cultural patterns appeared and production developed. These innovations became fashionable if they were approved at the royal court, since the king and courtiers were the main role models in class society.

From the middle of the 15th century, a new industrial upsurge began in Europe - workshops gave way to manufactories, in which the division of labor and specialized tools of production were widely used. There were no workshop restrictions in the manufactory, which made it possible to increase the production of fabrics. The cities of Italy became the centers of manufactory production. In France arose new center for the production of silk fabrics, which in the XVII-XIX centuries became the largest in Europe. At the beginning of the 17th century, the Lyonian Claude Dangon invented the loom, which could produce fabrics with complex multi-color patterns. The art of costume making reached its highest level in the 16th century. The tailor's craft was hereditary and quite respected. The specialization of tailors has already been outlined: some sewed raincoats, others - men's suits, others - women's dresses. All clothing was made to order. The craftsmen had special books where samples of fashionable cuts were collected, and, using them and the measurements of their customer, they sewed fashionable suits exactly according to the figure, correcting its shortcomings with the help of various gaskets. In the 16th century, a full frame type of costume developed. In Spain, the frame appeared in a men's suit at the end of the 15th and beginning of the 16th centuries; in the second half of the 15th century, a women's frame costume also arose, which consisted of a metal corset and a skirt frame (verdugos).

The century of the rapid development of manufacturing capitalism and the first bourgeois revolutions in Holland and England was the 17th century. Even in the era of the regency of Anna of Austria (1643-60), a new profession appeared in France - a milliner. Thus, there was a final division into male and female craftsmen: men's suits were sewn by a male tailor; women's dresses, headdresses, accessories - a milliner, underwear - a seamstress. The patroness of milliners and seamstresses was St. Ekaterina, her day - November 25 - will subsequently be celebrated as a special holiday in high fashion houses.

During the reign of Louis XIV, France became a trendsetter in Europe. The main source of information about fashion was the first periodical- the magazine "Gallant Mercury" (1672-79), helping French fashion to conquer Europe. In addition, twice a year, two wax dolls dressed in the latest fashion (since 1642) were sent from Paris to the capitals of other states: Big Pandora, dressed in a formal dress, and Small Pandora, dressed in a negligee - home dress. Imitation of French fashion came to the point that punctual German ladies not only spent a lot of money on the purchase of toilets, but also sent their tailors to study the latest fashion trends. The Sun King himself paid great attention to fashion, often coming up with new styles that were embodied in the material by his personal tailors and embroiderers - Jean Boiteau, Jacques Reni and Jean Henri. Louis XIV issued a special decree on changing clothes according to the seasons, which became part of the new court etiquette. It also contributed to the development fashion industry in France. In the XVIII century, the influence of France on European fashion was preserved, it was in France that a new artistic style was born - rococo (1730-50). The most extravagant women's fashions were under King Louis XVI. Queen of France Marie Antoinette aspired to become the "queen of fashion", the "arbiter of elegance", the most fashionable woman in Europe. She never wore the same dress twice, changed outfits three times a day, every week the court kuafer Leonard Bolyar made her a new hairstyle. The Parisian magazine Courière de la Fashion published engravings in each issue depicting nine new hairstyles - a total of 3744 samples per year.

The true trendsetter was Marie Antoinette's milliner Rose Bertin (Marie Jeanne Bertin, 1744-1813), who was then called the "Minister of Fashion". R. Bertin can be considered the first couturier, since it was she who offered the queen new models of dresses, hats and trimmings, visiting Versailles twice a week. R. Bertin came up with many fashionable novelties of that time, for example, the color of a flea (puce), bustle. Noble ladies sat for hours in the waiting room of the "Minister of Fashion", waiting for an audience to order a dress from the queen's milliner herself. It is R. Bertin who is credited with the catchphrase: “The new is the well-forgotten old”, which reflects the essence of fashion. In parallel with the French court fashion, a new fashion was developing, connected with the needs of the emerging bourgeois society. In the 18th century, the second capital of European fashion, London, arose.

Among the small landed nobility (gentry), new forms of clothing appeared, which later became classic: tailcoat and reddingot. In England, at the end of the 18th century, dandies appeared (a dandy is an exquisitely dressed person, a dandy, a dandy), who made their costume an object special concerns. The cut had to be absolutely perfect, so it became fashionable to have your own tailor and sew only from him. The requirements for them were very high, but their pay was worth a lot. The individuality and dignity of a person were affirmed by them in restrained colors, exquisite cut, impeccable fit of clothes on the figure and refined details. It was the dandies who brought into fashion snow-white shirts, ties and vests, which they changed several times a day. For the first time, not a noble and not a rich person became an object to follow.

In the 19th century, the production of ready-made clothes was actively developing. favorable conditions for the development of mass production of clothing created the French Revolution. The first confection houses (workshops for tailoring ready-made clothes) appeared during the revolution, in the first half of the 19th century. their number grew rapidly, despite the fact that the main tools of the tailor were still a needle, scissors and an iron. Initially, ready-made clothing was predominantly men's or outerwear, and women's clothing continued to sew on an individual order, as a careful fit of the dress to the figure was required. For women, the first confectionery houses sewed outerwear - all kinds of capes, and also made accessories, hats and corsets. Already in the 1820s, the first paper patterns appeared, which were produced by the Smith company in London, and since 1863 the production of patterns switched to an industrial basis (the famous American company Butterick was founded). In 1818, the Frenchman Michel invented the first cutting system (“the third system”), in 1831 a large-scale system appeared, then proportional calculation. In 1841, in Paris, the tailor A. Lavigne founded the Guerre-Lavigne cutting school with a workshop (later this company turned into the famous Esmod fashion school - higher school arts and fashion techniques). Later, A. Lavigne will sew Amazons for the Empress of France, Marie-Eugenie. He invented his own cutting system, a sewing mannequin bust and a flexible centimeter tape. A real revolution in the production of clothing was made by the invention of the sewing machine. The first draft of a sewing machine was proposed at the end of the 15th century by Leonard da Vinci, but remained unrealized. In 1755, the German Karl Weisenthal received a patent for a sewing machine that replicates the formation of stitches by hand. A more advanced machine for single-thread chain weaving was created by the Frenchman B. Timonier. All these machines have not received wide practical application. The American Ellias Howe is considered the inventor of the lockstitch sewing machine - the machine he created in 1845 had a number of drawbacks, but was still more suitable for sewing than the machines of previous inventors. The sewing machine was improved by subsequent inventors. In the first machines of A. Wilson (1850) and I. Singer (1851), the needle was given vertical movement, and the materials pressed by the foot were placed on a horizontal platform.

The emergence of tailoring in Russia

European clothes in Russia began to be worn thanks to the reforms of Peter I. Before that, traditional forms of clothing were simple in cut and did not change for a long time. All clothes, as a rule, were sewn at home: "Domostroy" ordered every woman to economically manage the household and be able to cut, sew, embroider clothes for the whole family. Clothes were inherited - they appreciated the quality and cost of the fabric. Until the 17th century, Russia practically did not have its own weaving production - clothes were sewn either from homespun fabrics (canvas, cloth) or from imported ones - velvet, brocade, obyari, taffeta from Byzantium, Italy, Turkey, Iran, China, cloth from England. Imported cloth and brocade were used in festive costumes even by wealthy peasants.

Vestments for the Moscow Tsar and his family were sewn in the Workshop of the Tsarina's Chamber. Both women and male tailors worked there - "shoulder masters" (since they dressed the "royal shoulder"). All outfits were decorated with embroidery in the Tsaritsyna Svetlitsa, where women of the royal family headed by the queen, noble noblewomen and simple craftswomen worked. Under Pyotr Alekseevich, European fashion actively penetrates into Russia with the approval of the tsar, who himself preferred to wear a Dutch or German-style suit that was more comfortable than traditional Russian long-brimmed clothing. Dresses of European cut for Peter were sewn by the masters of the German Settlement, and since 1690 - by the tailors of the Kremlin's Workshop Chamber. The Grand Embassy in 1697-98 purchased and ordered suits of fashionable cuts. Peter I forbade the nobles and townspeople to wear the old Russian costume on August 29, 1699, in January 1700 he ordered everyone to wear a dress in the manner of the Hungarian, in August - "all ranks to people", except for the clergy and arable peasants, to wear a Hungarian and German dress.

The secrets of European tailors began to be mastered by Russian masters. After the death of Peter I, part of the urban population returned to pre-Petrine clothing - until the end of the 19th century, elements of the traditional costume were preserved in the costume of the merchants and bourgeoisie. Therefore, tailors specialized in either European or "Russian" dress. In the XVIII century, the urban population sewed clothes to order from factory-made fabrics - from tailors, hatters, furriers, etc. Under Peter I, their own production of fabrics began to develop - silk and woolen manufactories were founded in Moscow and St. Petersburg. Under Anna Ioannovna and Elizaveta Petrovna, the Russian court was already guided by French fashion. The influence of French fashion especially increased during the reign of Catherine II. Rich nobles ordered dresses directly from France. French tailors worked in Russia - mainly in Moscow and St. Petersburg. Until the middle of the 18th century, information about the latest European fashions was obtained from mannequins that were brought from Paris and London. In the second half of the 18th century, fashionable almanacs and magazines were distributed. In 1779, the Russian Fashion Monthly Publication, or Library for the Ladies' Toilet was founded (published by N. I. Novikov). In the second half of the 19th century, the production of ready-made clothes developed. Initially, uniforms were sewn in the workshops of the finished dress - military uniforms and uniforms for various departments. Then they began to sew men's suits, shirts, trousers, vests, coats, ladies' capes. The less wealthy sections of the urban population dressed in the "Houses of the Ready Dress". At the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th centuries in St. Petersburg there was a linen and tie factory by R. M. Gershman, the Mandl company (factories and shops for men's and women's ready-made dresses); in Moscow - "Gerasimov and Sons" (production and sale of ready-made dresses), "Spirin and K" (ready-made ladies' dress). Ready-made clothes were also sold in department stores, for example, in the Muir and Mary-Lease trading house, the largest store in Russia at the beginning of the 20th century. Most of the townspeople made clothes to order, usually from private tailors.

Russian tailors in the 19th century often traveled to improve their skills in tailoring schools in London or Vienna. Foreign tailors kept workshops in Moscow and St. Petersburg, and they employed mainly Russian masters. In the provinces, most of the clothes were sewn from mannequins made according to the figure of regular customers. Handicraft tailors were guided by fashion magazines and pictures. In the 19th century, there were many such publications - since 1834 the magazine Library for Reading was published with fashionable pictures, since 1836 - Sovremennik and Muscovite. Rich ladies from the provinces ordered toilets from Moscow and St. Petersburg, sometimes from Paris. There were universal tailors, but, as a rule, tailors had a specialization: some sewed military uniforms, others sewed clothes for the clergy, still others sewed uniforms for officials, and still others sewed civil suits.

Fashion salons in Moscow and St. Petersburg, in terms of the level of execution of models, could well be compared with Parisian fashion houses. Ateliers were opened in the second half of the 19th - early 20th centuries. In St. Petersburg, most fashion ateliers were located on Nevsky Prospekt, Moika and Morskaya Street, in Moscow - on Petrovka and Kuznetsky Most. By the end of the century, the models of Russian tailors were in no way inferior to those of Paris. For example, N. P. Lamanova carried out the orders of empresses and court ladies, so her dress was no less prestigious than in Parisian salons.

Nadezhda Petrovna Lamanova was born in 1861 in the village of Shuzilovo, Nizhny Novgorod province, into a military family. After graduating from an eight-year gymnasium, she had to go to work to support her younger sisters after the death of her parents. N. P. Lamanova studied at the O. Suvorova cutting school in Moscow for two years, after which she began working as a cutter (“modeler”) in the Voitkevich workshop. In 1885, N. P. Lamanova opened her own workshop on Bolshaya Dmitrovka. She undoubtedly possessed the talent of a couturier, which was appreciated by her contemporaries. Lamanova became the most famous fashion designer in Moscow: “The sharpness of her eyes, her subtle artistic flair helped her to instantly appreciate the features of the figure and the whole appearance of a person, correctly guess the most “winning” style and color of the suit for him.” Her customers were brilliant aristocrats and famous actresses. Lamanova became "the supplier of Her imperial court." By the beginning of World War I, the salon of N. P. Lamanova was one of the most famous in Russia. Like most Parisian couturiers, Lamanova worked using the tattoo method, piercing the fabric on the figure of a client or fashion model, achieving harmony in the proportions of the costume and figure. Several of her dresses have been preserved in the Hermitage - they prove Lamanova's undoubted skill and ability to create exquisite models in accordance with the canons of Parisian fashion, combining a refined form, adjusted proportions and a diverse decor typical of the Russian tradition.

How to get a profession

A tailor is a person with a specialized secondary education. Such a specialty can be obtained in college. The main thing in learning this craft is practice, which is a significant part of the learning process.

Requirements for a candidate

The services of a tailor are used by people who hold the opinion that they meet by clothes, so a good specialist should take into account fashion trends in his work and have the following qualities:

have drawing skills;
understand the mechanism of the mechanism and the principle of operation of sewing machines;
be able to choose materials for tailoring, taking into account the characteristics of fabrics;
apply knowledge about the structure of the human body to correct figure flaws with the help of clothing.

Perseverance and perseverance are important in the character of a tailor, and a specialist must also be accurate and have good taste. The work of tailors is connected with people, so you need to be able to communicate with customers.

Responsibilities

The tailor is engaged in the manufacture, alteration of finished garments for individual orders, the release of new models. He grinds parts, performs wet-heat treatment, cuts inaccuracies, finishes the neck of products, design fasteners, sleeves, bottom of the product.

Salary

Tailor's salary is from 70,000 to 150,000 tenge, although this figure is far from final, since a true master of his craft has regular customers, ready to pay for an exclusive well, just fantastic amounts.

Pros and cons

The people who do this work run the risk of not pleasing the customer if the batch of clothes is not made to order. In addition, material damage may occur due to incorrect modeling. But on the other hand, a good tailor makes good money, because people will buy clothes regardless of economic situation in the country. The work of a tailor is not associated with “hazards” or a threat to life, but it is rather difficult psychologically, since you have to constantly adapt to the changing desires of customers, which makes you very tired.

Contraindications

Medical restrictions for a tailor:

diseases of the musculoskeletal system;
nervous system;
organs of vision;
mental disorders;
various forms of allergies;
physical restrictions (limitations of mobility, especially of the arms).

In the presence of these diseases, working in the profession of a tailor can lead to poor health, as well as create insurmountable obstacles to development and growth within this profession.

prospects

Specialization and development of related areas

Tailors can specialize in specific areas of production, tailoring a particular type of clothing. At the same time, the tailor can improve his skills, start developing models of clothes or specialize in the field of production technology. Also, a person with the profession of a tailor can master related specializations, such as a master of industrial training, a fashion designer, a sewing production technologist and others.

Managerial path of development

AT this case a tailor can become a shift supervisor, a foreman, or, if he receives additional education, he can grow up to the level of a production manager. In the case of this direction of career growth, it is recommended to develop managerial skills, to master such professions as a process engineer, manager.

Interesting facts about the creation of a sewing machine

The first sewing machines appeared much later than looms and mechanized spinning wheels, although attempts to mechanize the work of tailors were noticeable as early as the middle of the 14th century.

In 1755, the Englishman Charles Weisenthal invented a sewing machine with two sharp ends on the needle and a thread hole in the middle. In operation, the apparatus was imperfect, since the needle pierced the matter back and forth without turning over itself, so the first attempts to create a sewing machine were not successful and were not very popular.

The Englishman Thomas Saint decided to continue the work of Charles Weisenthal, and in 1790 his typewriter received a patent. Thomas Saint's sewing machine was designed for sewing shoes and boots, making a single-thread seam. However, a curious fact is that after a century, attempts to recreate the Senta sewing machine from the drawings were not successful, since the device simply could not function without significant modifications. But despite this, the very fact of the appearance of a sewing machine that replaces human labor prompted the inventors not to stand still and develop new designs for mechanical stitching.

Austrian tailor Josef Madersperger from Vienna is the first person to use two threads for the same seam, he also designed his sewing machine on this principle. However, due to design imperfections, it did not receive distribution. Later, in 1814, Madersperger invented a needle with an eye at the point.

But only the Frenchman B. Timonier in 1830 was lucky. He created a machine that gave a chain seam, and was even released in the amount of 80 pieces. The sewing machine was practically the main attribute of the army, since soldier's uniforms were sewn on it.

In 1832, a news appeared in a Berlin newspaper: “It is reported from Paris that the tailor B. Timonnier showed in Villefranche a sewing machine designed by him, the reality of which can be doubted if you do not see it with your own eyes. Any student can learn to sew on it in a few hours. It is reported that this machine can make two hundred stitches per minute. All this and much more in the design of the sewing machine is on the verge of fantasy. But the Frenchman Timonnier's sewing machine was not perfect, it made poor-quality seams, and the stitches quickly unraveled.

In 1832-34, Walter Hunt used a shuttle in a sewing machine, putting a straight needle on it with an eye at the tip and a shuttle that is similar to a loom. However, Hunt failed to obtain a patent, since his machine was not perfect and was unstable.

Elias Gow, an American, worked in a textile machinery factory. In 1845 Gow received a patent for the first real lockstitch sewing machine. He used elements of a loom in his machine, including a kind of shuttle. The principle of this machine was as follows: securing the stitches with a second thread passing from below. This principle still works today. E. Gow's sewing machine gave out 300 stitches per minute, the needle moved horizontally, the fabrics moved only in a straight line and were arranged vertically. The machine gained great popularity, but it also required improvement. The American inventors Aooen Wilson, James Gibbs, John Bachelder and the brilliant entrepreneur Isaac Merrit Singer, who came from Germany, took up this business. It was Singer who in 1851 invented the first household sewing machine with a vertical needle and a foot that secures the fabric in a horizontal plane.

In 1852, A. Wilson received a patent for a four-stroke rack-and-pinion fabric engine, thanks to which the speed of the sewing machine increased significantly.

In 1852, Singer sold his sewing machine for $100, and in 1854 he formed the Singer Company with Edward Clark. A year later, his invention won first prize at the World Fair in Paris. Singer machines were in great demand in America. This was also facilitated by the fact that in 1856 the company made a decision that was unique for those times: an installment sale. By 1863, the Singer Company was selling 20,000 sewing machines a year, four years later it already had several factories in America, opened its first factory in Scotland, and later factories of the Singer empire appeared in many countries of the world.

Improvements to sewing machines took place constantly. So in the 1870s, the first high-speed electric drive machine appeared. By 1900, there were not only machines for sewing clothes, but also for sewing canvas tents, sails, mail bags, book bindings, travel chests, saddle equipment, shoes, haberdashery (belts, ribbons, umbrellas), hats, hoses, etc.

It's amazing how the sewing machines of the 19th-20th centuries differ from modern ones. The design was changed and simplified, the typewriters stopped painting by hand, artistic figure casting, mother-of-pearl inlay, multi-color images of eminent persons, wood carving and other delights became a thing of the past. Modern sewing machines can produce a lot of different stitches, while the ancient Singer could only produce straight lines.

The depreciation of the ruble contributed to the growth of interest in Russian manufacturer sewing products. Clothing production gradually began to move from Asia and China to Russia, to domestic sewing enterprises. Now tailoring in Russia has become more profitable due to a reduction in cost by 10-15%, a reduction in transportation costs and delivery times.

In connection with the growth of the dollar, our manufacturers are increasing the number of orders and customers. The right moment has come to expand our own clothing production and build up capacities to produce quality products at an affordable price.

own clothing industry has a number of advantages at the moment. First of all, it is an opportunity to plan your own success, without any external reasons, because the main levers of the business are in the hands of the entrepreneur-owner.

First of all, it is the optimization of all production costs:

Saving fabrics and consumables

Multi-stage quality control

Pricing control

Comprehensive planning of production and sales processes

Own sewing production in combination with the design department can be very flexible in expanding and managing the assortment, in the timing of the release of products and in the price-quality ratio.

Thus, all the most important production decisions are made quickly and efficiently.

When organizing your own sewing production, a number of problems arise. First of all, this is a lack of qualified personnel, investments and a well-functioning market for the sale of manufactured products.

The shortage is made up of seamstresses who are able to work to a complex quality standard. Sewing faculties are not prestigious and barely enroll students.

A big minus in the clothing industry is a serious dependence on raw materials, fabrics (up to 55%), and accessories. In Russia today, there is practically no production of fabric. You don't have to look far for examples. The largest Worsted Combine in Ivanovo, which produced excellent quality suit fabrics, dressing the whole country, where more than 2,000 textile workers worked, was rebuilt into shopping center. The same fate befell the cotton mills.

Another serious problem is ensuring the utilization of production capacities. all year round. The enterprise should always work, any downtime leads to loss of profit. But at the same time, the company must produce as many products as it can sell.

Therefore, it is necessary to plan correctly, at least for six months, while studying market trends, trying to predict the preferences of the end buyer, taking into account the income level of the population.

For a domestic manufacturer, the most interesting and competitive niche is the mid-price segment, and today it remains free.

If you decide to open, expand, modernize your own sewing production, then you can contact the Shveyprom company for high-quality, modern and reliable: sewing, cutting, ironing, quilting, embroidery, etc.

We will be glad to see you among our clients.

Today, there are not many professions in which the fair sex could realize their creative abilities. One of these is the profession of a seamstress. It is great for those women who, due to certain circumstances, are forced to stay at home. Tailoring to order will be an additional source of income for them.

Duties of a seamstress

Inexperienced needlewomen perform the simplest operations on a typewriter or sew on buttons on a conveyor. Professional craftswomen can afford to sew clothes to order, while creating their own unique design models. A seamstress must be able to work with various materials. You also need to learn how to handle the sewing machine well: adjust the thread tension, monitor the stitching frequency.

Since it is quite easy to find a job as a seamstress nowadays, every craftswoman will be able to choose what she likes best. Someone prefers to work in large-scale production and perform monotonous routine work, for example, sewing on pockets or processing buttonholes. Others like a small atelier, where there is an opportunity to work independently or together with someone. And someone wants to become a private entrepreneur and work at home, equipping a sewing workshop in one of the rooms. As you can see, the profession is suitable for any woman, as it has huge variety activities.

Pros and cons of being a seamstress

Advantages:

availability of training;
opportunity to work.

Flaws:

monotony of work;
noise in the workshop;
relatively little interaction with people.

Do not miss:

But no matter what kind of activity a seamstress would choose for herself, there is a list of qualities necessary for all representatives of this profession:

Ability to do all work very carefully.
Follow the given instructions carefully.
Deliver finished products on time.
All work must be done exactly as ordered.
A seamstress must have impeccable taste and an excellent memory.
Responsible for his work.

Where to study seamstress

Service College No. 10, Moscow;
College of technology and design;
Chelyabinsk College of Textile and Light Industry;
Izhora Polytechnic Lyceum;
College of Technology No. 34, GBOU SPO TK No. 34.

After receiving a diploma, a needlewoman can work in the following industries: making knitwear, sewing hats and fur coats, just in a garment factory. There are plenty to choose from. Salary will depend on the complexity of the work performed and the scale of production.