Trench greenhouse. Greenhouse in the ground - features and manufacture Greenhouse with a recess in the ground

The construction of an underground greenhouse with your own hands at first glance seems incomprehensible. Some refuse the idea due to a lack of understanding of the need and expediency of deepening the greenhouse, while others are frightened off by the laboriousness of the process. However, if you deal with everything in order, the advantages and effectiveness of the pit construction become obvious. Having learned the main points of arrangement and having studied the step-by-step construction technology, you can begin to independently create a thermos greenhouse.

Energy efficient underground thermos greenhouse

The principle of operation of a greenhouse buried in the ground

The base of the buried greenhouse is in the ground, the sun's rays penetrate through the transparent roof. This solution allows you to achieve a thermal insulation effect without heating equipment. Under the ground in a winter thermos greenhouse, you can grow different types of plants, including exotic ones, which is proved by the report in the video.

Video: Variety of crops grown in a buried thermos greenhouse

Why hide a greenhouse in the ground

The practice of building greenhouses in the ground has lost its former popularity, and today recessed structures in a summer cottage are rather exotic. The main reason for abandoning the "dugouts" is the laboriousness of digging a pit. Some agronomists prefer the traditional building because of the better illumination of the plants.

However, there are plenty of good reasons for arranging an underground greenhouse for vegetable growing and horticulture:

The walls of a recessed greenhouse accumulate heat according to the principle of a thermos, stabilizing the temperature regime of the microclimate in the nursery. The difference between day and night temperatures is about 5 °C.
Thanks to the cumulative effect, in the southern regions it is possible to do without forced heating throughout the year, and in cold regions it is possible to significantly reduce heating costs in winter.
The cost of a greenhouse underground is much lower than the construction of a conventional greenhouse. Wall decoration is minimal - it can be made from old bricks or logs. The covering sheet is used exclusively for the roof.

Buried greenhouse made of brick and polycarbonate

Drawings and photos of structures

All pit greenhouses, depending on the depth and height of the walls, are divided into two groups: buried and underground.

Buried greenhouses are partially submerged in the soil - to a depth of about 50-80 cm. The height of the ground walls reaches 110-150 cm and more. Building a greenhouse underground with your own hands comes down to preparing a pit and installing a traditional structure. The presence of ground walls makes the building more vulnerable to cold weather.

Partially buried thermos greenhouse

Drawing of a gable recessed building

An underground greenhouse assumes the presence in the ground part of only a shelter and a horizontal support beam. The construction is painstakingly arranged and requires a special approach to lighting.

Underground greenhouse for year-round gardening

Assembly scheme of the underground "thermos"

Depending on the height of the opposite walls, horizontal and inclined greenhouses are distinguished. In the first case, the support bars are the same on the longitudinal sides. Such a thermos greenhouse is suitable for areas with a flat terrain.

Horizontal model of an underground greenhouse

Inclined models are used mainly on slopes. An interesting option is to add a greenhouse to the house. Here the main requirement is the choice of the sunny side and the optimal angle of inclination of the roof.

Inclined version of the greenhouse

During the construction of the "thermos" Walipini (an American development for cold mountainous areas), the most rational is the angle of 39 °, which provides maximum illumination due to perpendicular sunlight on the plants.

Based on the shape of the roof, underground year-round greenhouses are:

gable;
lean-to;
tunnel (arched).

Scheme of the thermos greenhouse Walipini

Gable - the classic model of the "house". The angle of inclination of the roof is 30 ° - 40 °, but in regions with snowy winters, an increase in the parameter is acceptable. The main plus is the sun exposure for the maximum possible time during the day.

Shed greenhouses are quite compact, but limited in getting natural light, especially in winter. To support the growth and fruiting of plants, artificial lighting is often used.

An example of a solution for a shed underground greenhouse

Tunnel frames are erected from metal arcs, covered with a film or polycarbonate. Pros: Easy to assemble and all-round illumination. Minus - compared to gable arched greenhouses, they are more susceptible to gusts of wind.

Arched or tunnel greenhouse-thermos

Advantages and disadvantages of an underground greenhouse

When planning year-round cultivation of crops in a greenhouse underground, it is necessary to weigh all the pros and cons of the "thermos". Gardeners-gardeners include among the main advantages of an in-depth greenhouse:

temperature balance. In winter, without mechanical heating, the temperature reaches +10 °C, and in summer the plants are protected from overheating (up to +22 °C). Recessed walls prevent sunburn by providing diffused light.
Versatility. The winter thermos greenhouse is applicable for vegetable growing, floriculture and exotic gardening. Michurin amateurs and experienced gardeners cultivate heat-loving plants all year round.
Efficiency. A buried greenhouse fully justifies the construction costs and pays for itself in the first two years in the industrial cultivation of vegetables, herbs, seedlings, flowers. The construction is indispensable in regions with a short summer.
High strength. The squatness of the "thermos" determines its resistance to wind and hurricane. This quality guarantees durability.

The versatility of an underground greenhouse

Negative moments of buried greenhouses:

Increased humidity. Atmospheric precipitation, settling in the soil, is transferred to the room - the level of relative humidity increases. Likely consequences: the development of mold, moss and pathogenic fungi. To minimize negative factors, you should take care of supply and exhaust ventilation.
The complexity of building with your own hands. Only earthworks are of particular difficulty - for their implementation it will be necessary to attract construction equipment. However, when building a small semi-buried thermos greenhouse underground, you can do the digging yourself. It is advisable to use two or three assistants.

Requirements for buried greenhouses

The tactics of building an underground thermos greenhouse has a number of nuances that are important to consider at the design stage. The main points concern the location and dimensions.

The possibility of shadows from neighboring buildings and plantings should be excluded.
To increase the intensity of illumination, the longitudinal side is oriented in an east-west direction.
Proximity to a reservoir is highly undesirable - this is fraught with the appearance of dampness inside the underground greenhouse.
If cold gusty winds prevail in the region, then it is advisable to protect the dugout and build a fence. The wind barrier should not be placed too close - with a roof height of 2.5 m, a distance of 8-10 m is considered optimal.
The underground greenhouse-thermos is a capital structure and it is impossible to rearrange it to another place. Therefore, it is necessary to foresee the availability of water for irrigation and a convenient entrance in advance.

As for the dimensions, there are no restrictions on the length, and the maximum width is 5 m. If the parameter is exceeded, the heating intensity and light reflection deteriorate.

The depth of the dugout has a special effect on the heat-holding capacity. The base of the thermos greenhouse should not reach groundwater, but the beds should be laid out at least 1 m below the level of soil freezing. In temperate climates, the minimum depth is 2 m.

The minimum depth of the thermos greenhouse is 2 m

How to build a thermos greenhouse - step by step instructions

A step-by-step instruction with visual photos will help you determine the materials, understand the sequence of building a buried greenhouse, and, as a result, make a compact dugout for a summer residence based on your own strength.

Step 1: Prepare materials and tools

The main structural elements of a greenhouse recessed into the ground: walls, frame and roofing.

For walls, thermoblocks are mainly used. The building material consists of polystyrene foam walls connected by jumpers. Blocks are used as formwork, and after installation they are poured with concrete. The result is a strong and insulated wall.

Thermoblock for the construction of a buried greenhouse

The roof frame is erected from a metal profile or wood. The first option will provide proper strength and wear resistance, but the processing of metal structures requires skills in working with a welding machine. It is easier to make a frame from wooden slats and treat it with a protective impregnation.

Used as a cover:

film - low cost, but limited service life - 2-3 years;
glass - fire resistance, sufficient transparency, but the fragility and high cost of the "plating";
polycarbonate - impact resistance, plasticity, resistance to UV rays, service life - up to 10-15 years.

Cellular polycarbonate for sheltering greenhouses

The optimal solution for an underground thermos greenhouse is cellular polycarbonate 6 mm thick.

In addition to the materials described for the construction of an underground greenhouse with your own hands, you will need:

fittings, cement, crushed stone and sand for the foundation;
expanded polystyrene plates and reflective film for additional thermal insulation;
plaster mixture;
fasteners: screws, nails, nuts.

Required tools:

jigsaw;
bayonet and shovel;
concrete mixer;
hammer;
pliers;
Master OK;
tape measure, plumb line and level.

Pit preparation

Step 2: how to make the base of the greenhouse

The basis of the greenhouse in the ground is the foundation in the prepared pit. Therefore, the first stage is marking the site for an underground greenhouse and carrying out land work.

As a rule, the area of an underground building is 10-50 square meters. m. It is very difficult to overpower such a volume on your own, so it is better to use the services of an excavator. The walls of the dug pit must be leveled with a shovel to achieve the desired dimensions.

At this stage, it is worth considering the need and methods for an additional heating system - whether a communications supply is required.

The next stage is the laying of the strip foundation. It can be replaced with concrete blocks. If the thermos greenhouse is partially buried in the ground, then the base rises to the full depth of the pit or slightly above the middle.

Sequencing:

Prepare a wooden formwork - inside the perimeter of the pit, set wedges with a distance of 30 cm. Make boards from the boards. Immediately mark the place under the door - do not fill the foundation here.
Mix gravel and sand in equal proportions and fill the trench. The thickness of the "pillow" is 10 cm.
Weld the reinforcing block. The reinforcing frame must consist of at least 4 bars.
Install the armored belt on the sand and gravel backfill. It is necessary to remove the metal protrusions - they will fix the thermal blocks and the base of the canopy will be attached to them.
Combine sand, cement and gravel (5:1:3), add water and knead the solution.
Pour the formwork with the prepared mixture.

Installation of formwork for concrete pouring

Work continues after 25 days - the foundation should gain strength. At the end of the line, the formwork can be removed, and the concrete base can be treated with bituminous mastic to protect it from moisture.

Step 3: building the frame

To increase the height of the underground greenhouse, thermal blocks are placed through which metal rods from the foundation are threaded. The voids of the blocks are filled with concrete. The entrance is framed with wooden beams.

The height of the walls of the deepened greenhouse-thermos is at least 50 cm. This value is enough so that in winter snowdrifts do not clutter up the covering material and do not interfere with the flow of light.

The rise of the walls of the greenhouse-thermos above ground level

Before the construction of the frame, the greenhouse is thermally insulated. The inner part is sheathed with foil insulation - due to the reflection of sunlight, heat accumulation will increase.

Prepare the details of the truss system and treat the wooden blanks with an antiseptic.
Connect the rafters and strengthen them with metal corners.
Form a support from the rafters and bring a ridge beam under them.
Dock the extreme rafters with the beam with self-tapping screws.
Install jumpers on the front support between the flashings and rafters.
Paint the wood frame.

Roof truss system for thermo-greenhouses

Step 4: covering the greenhouse

Polycarbonate is fastened using:

roofing screws;
connecting profile;
self-tapping screws with a thermal washer made of polymer.

The sequence of covering the underground greenhouse-thermos:

Using a sharp knife or a jigsaw, cut a polycarbonate sheet according to the dimensions of the roof. It is important not to damage the stabilizing coating.
Lay the workpiece on a flat surface, mark the attachment points with a marker and drill holes.
Glue the ends of polycarbonate with sealing tape.
Attach the canvas to the frame with the stabilizing side outward and, holding, fasten the screws. Fasteners must be perpendicular to the polycarbonate.
Join adjacent sheets through a connecting profile.
Fix an iron roofing corner along the ridge beam.

Covering the thermos greenhouse with polycarbonate

In the roof of the underground greenhouse, it is necessary to provide folding vents for ventilation.

Step 5: arranging a thermos greenhouse

The organization of the internal space of the underground greenhouse includes:

breakdown of beds;
framing tracks;
creation of a fertile layer;
supply of electricity.

The number and size of the beds depend on the width of the thermos greenhouse. Planning nuances:

the maximum width of the ridge is 1-1.2 m - if the indicator is exceeded, it is not convenient to take care of distant landings;
with limited space, 2 beds are broken along the longitudinal walls, in the center - a path with a width of 50 cm or more;
if three parallel landing strips fit, then the permissible center width reaches 1.5 m - it will be possible to cultivate crops from versatile aisles.

Layout of beds in a buried greenhouse

Due to the high humidity in a deep thermos greenhouse, uncovered earthen paths quickly become slippery, and puddles form on them after watering. Ennoblement of passages:

Install the limiter boards - a height of 5 cm above the ground.
Line the paths with a deck of bricks, pieces of blocks or wooden boards.

Raised beds 25-30 cm high are suitable for a pit greenhouse. Framing is done with flat slate strips, metal or wood. Pegs are installed to support the curb. Fertile soil is poured inside the formed box.

Possible soil mixture options:

sand, soil, humus, peat (1:1:3:5);
chopped straw, peat, cow dung (1:2:1).

In conclusion, they conduct electricity, hang the door and locking fittings, mount lighting devices.

Video: how to build an underground greenhouse

Do-it-yourself practical examples of a thermos greenhouse show the main aspects of building an all-season greenhouse.

An example of an underground greenhouse for year-round gardening: description and detailed drawing. Shelter - three-layer polyethylene.

Video: Dugout for vegetables without heating

In-depth winter greenhouse with a water heating circuit from the Buleryan furnace and a drip irrigation system. Canopy material - two-layer film.

Video: Arrangement and heating of a greenhouse underground

The underground thermos greenhouse makes it possible to grow various types of crops all year round. The construction and arrangement of a winter structure is within the power of even novice gardeners - it is important to correctly determine the depth of construction, select materials and adhere to construction technology.

One of the most rational options for the construction of a capital greenhouse is an underground greenhouse. It is built like a thermos and has a lot of advantages. In order for the building to have all the advantages, it is necessary to know the features of its construction.

Advantages and disadvantages of an underground greenhouse

Do-it-yourself underground greenhouses have the following advantages of their construction:

year-round design option;
no dependence on the weather;
high efficiency;
efficient use of solar energy (used for additional heating of the building);
in such a design, even exotic crops for a particular locality can be grown;
durability and reliability;
excellent light transmission parameters of the roof;
good thermal insulation performance of the room;
versatility.

A greenhouse in the ground has these advantages, both without heating and with it.

A ruined type of greenhouse has only two negative points: a rather high labor intensity of manufacture, as well as the need for a reliable ventilation system in the construction. But if you approach the work correctly, then these design flaws will not bring much trouble.

Video "Dugout greenhouse for year-round gardening"

In this video you will learn how to build a dugout greenhouse for year-round gardening.

Design features

An underground greenhouse is a structure that is partially organized in the ground. Thanks to this design, a thermos effect occurs. It manifests itself if the greenhouse was buried at least 1 m into the ground. In this case, the temperature indicator inside such a dugout will be in the range of + 3 ... + 14 ° C.

If the building is deepened by 2.2–2.4 m, then during the year the temperature inside will be kept at almost the same level. At the same time, the main task in such buildings is to maintain the temperature indicator and organize irrigation.

If you are going to make an underground greenhouse, then you need to correctly calculate the level of penetration into the ground. This parameter is determined based on the depth of groundwater, as well as winter freezing. Based on these parameters, one can easily understand whether this type of greenhouse is rational. In swampy areas, as well as with a close occurrence of groundwater, an in-depth version of greenhouses is not used.

It should be noted that the soil freezing factor has the main influence on the cultivation of plants. The beds with crops in such structures should be located below the level of seasonal freezing existing in the region. Therefore, the lower level of the deepening should be between the indicator of groundwater occurrence and soil freezing.

To date, there are two types of earthen greenhouse:

underground. In this case, a depth is selected that allows maintenance of plant beds completely underground. Inside the greenhouse, there should be a ladder at the entrance wall, as well as passages between areas (where a certain group of plants is grown), along which a person can move without bending;
buried. Here, the maintenance of the structure is carried out without a ladder, from the soil surface. This lifts the roof.

Depending on the characteristics of the relief and the available area, a do-it-yourself greenhouse underground can be horizontal (the height of all walls is the same) and inclined. Such greenhouses, according to the area occupied, are trench (considerable length with a minimum width) or pit.

A greenhouse in the ground can be used to grow fruits, berries, mushrooms, vegetables, seedlings and flowers. Due to the design features, such a greenhouse can be placed in Siberia or in any other region of our country.

How to DIY

A do-it-yourself recessed greenhouse is built in several stages. To build it, you will need the following tools:

perforator;
hammer;
Bulgarian;
shovel;
construction mixer and vibrator for concrete;
electric drill;
hacksaw, knife and scissors;
Master OK;
putty knife;
paint brush;
level, plumb and tape measure.

The Scottish (buried) type of greenhouse is started by digging a foundation pit.

foundation pit

To create a greenhouse effect inside the greenhouse, the depth of the pit should be 1.9–2.2 (2.5) m. The width of the structure should not be more than 4.8–5.2 m. If you organize the structure wide, then the insolation parameters will deteriorate and the need for heating will also increase.

The length is determined depending on the free area available on the site for construction. How much space you allocate for a greenhouse, this will be its length.

The pit being erected is recommended to be oriented in the east-west direction. The sides of the pit should be leveled as much as possible. This is necessary to make high-quality walls. Each side of the building must be properly aligned so that there are no problems with the organization of the roof.

Foundation and walls

When you have dug a foundation pit for your greenhouse, you can proceed to the foundation bay. Usually the base is poured around the perimeter of the structure and looks like a tape. When creating a foundation of this type, reinforced concrete should be used. The optimal thickness of the base is 30–50 cm (depending on the size of the greenhouse). As a result, the floor in the center of the building remains earthen.

The side walls can be built from wood, polystyrene foam blocks or cellular concrete blocks. These materials have excellent thermal insulation parameters and are light in weight.

If gardening is year-round, then the level of the walls must be chosen so that they rise above the snow cover by at least 0.5 m. The optimal height of the walls for such structures is determined individually for each region.

Roof installation

To make a roof in a recessed greenhouse, it is necessary to install supports in the center of the building. Wooden beams will be laid on them and the walls. A ridge beam should be installed in the center of the building. After that, transverse ribs are mounted from the bars. On the resulting frame, honeycomb-type polycarbonate sheets are installed.

The covering material is fixed on the beams with the help of special thermal washers equipped with rubber seals. During installation, the hand must be firm, which will prevent the appearance of cracks. To improve the thermal insulation of a greenhouse in cold regions, the roof should be organized from two layers of polycarbonate.

Warming and heating

To insulate a buried greenhouse, the surface of the walls should be covered with a waterproofing film. Thermal insulation is already mounted on top of it. As a heater, polystyrene foam or mineral wool is most often used. You can also use special polymer heat-insulating films equipped with a layer of foil. They allow you to accumulate heat inside the room due to the reflection of sunlight. If necessary, grow heat-loving plants equipped with floor heating.

Thus, a buried greenhouse is built. With proper construction, such a building will have all the advantages described above. After the construction is completed, the greenhouse can be immediately used for its intended purpose.

Among the huge variety of greenhouses, it is difficult to choose those that will allow you to get a good harvest even in winter. However, underground greenhouses, which are popular with the peoples of India, are being improved and are gaining popularity in Russian latitudes with a cold climate precisely because of their unique properties.

The essence of this design is that its main part is underground and the plants located there are provided with a favorable microclimate all year round. This greenhouse is also called a thermos greenhouse because of the property of storing heat underground. The deeper the underground greenhouse is located, the more stable the temperature regime throughout the year.

Another underground greenhouse attracts with the fact that it can be built with your own hands using improvised means, using polycarbonate, glass or film as a material. If other models need material for thermal insulation, then there are enough walls made of earth. Such a greenhouse is very economical from the financial side, and the benefits are huge.

Advantages and disadvantages

The following are the positive aspects of an underground greenhouse:

Without connecting additional heating, the temperature in winter can reach more than 10 degrees Celsius;
The natural coolness that occurs underground in the summer is favorable for the crops grown;
The conditions in the underground greenhouse allow you to grow both vegetable and berry crops;
The low cost of the building itself and the possibility of saving on heating and lighting;
Excellent light transmission, in which the sun's rays are distributed evenly.

Of the negative sides can be identified:

The complexity of making a structure with your own hands;
The need for reliable ventilation;
Possession of skills in conducting communication systems.

Building options

Depending on the depth at which the greenhouse will be equipped, you will get a buried greenhouse, or an underground one. Before starting the construction of a structure with your own hands, you should evaluate the properties of the soil: how much it freezes in winter and what is the level of groundwater. If groundwater is not deep, then it is hardly possible to build an underground greenhouse, since it should be located much higher than their level. While when the soil freezes, the depth of the beds increases. Thus, the level of deepening fluctuates between groundwater and frozen ground.

If the greenhouse will be located completely underground, then it must have stairs and walkways, as well as the possibility of full maintenance of the planted crops.

And the recessed greenhouse is simplified by the absence of additional outbuildings, since the only way to provide care for the plants is to raise the roof.

Also, the choice of the type of construction is influenced by the surface topography and the size of the site.

Based on this, it is possible to make the greenhouse horizontal with equal wall heights or inclined if the terrain is uneven. In the latter case, it is important that the slope be directed to the maximum penetration of sunlight, for this the northern part of the structure should be slightly higher than the southern one (by 15-20 degrees).

If the territory allows, then a greenhouse of a pit type is being built, if the site is narrow, then a trench type of greenhouse is suitable - not wide, but long.

DIY underground greenhouse

For construction work, you will need the following materials and tools: cement, shovel and bayonet shovel, mortar container, trowel, plaster, polycarbonate or film, thermal blocks, nails and self-tapping screws, thermal insulation film, foam plastic, hammer, paint, perforator, grinder, drill , level, spatula, scissors.

Despite the fact that a high-quality greenhouse requires considerable effort during construction, during its operation they will more than pay off.

At the initial stage, it is important to correctly draw up a project and drawing. When planning, consider the following points:

The location of the structure relative to the cardinal points: put the greenhouse from the east to the west - this method will ensure maximum penetration of light inside;
Consider the dimensions and depth: focusing on the freezing of the soil, the depth is recommended within 2 meters, the width is not more than 5, otherwise the heat preservation will not be as effective;
A recessed greenhouse needs thermal insulation of walls and foundations, an elevated structure is insulated on the north side;
Where the structure is insulated, reflective coatings are applied;
Consider arranging lighting and ventilation, as well as a high-quality drainage system.

After the design work, you can start digging a pit in the place chosen for the greenhouse, the standard shape for underground structures is rectangular. To obtain high-quality walls, the sides of the pit must be well aligned.

The second stage is the preparation of the foundation. The trench is laid out in blocks along the perimeter and poured with concrete or cement mortar.

For waterproofing, roofing material is used, laid between the soil and the walls.

After the formwork has been removed and the underground walls have been built, work is carried out on the construction of above-ground walls from thermoblocks or bricks. Their height can reach up to a meter.

It should be remembered that the design must be of high quality insulated. To do this, the surface of the walls is covered with a heat-insulating film with foil - this modern material reflects sunlight, thereby retaining heat.

The next stage of work is the construction of the roof. It is more reliable to use modern material - polycarbonate, it is durable, frost-resistant and transmits ultraviolet light. Polycarbonate sheets are inserted into the frame of the roof and above-ground part of the greenhouse. The roof must have vents, or rise to ventilate the greenhouse. All cracks and gaps should be sealed with mounting foam.

Interior arrangement

After construction work, you should do the internal arrangement of the greenhouse. In addition to creating beds with fertile soil, you need to think over a system of lighting, watering, and additional heating. To get a rich harvest, you should not save money by purchasing material for communications.

To install lighting under the ceiling, a line is laid, constructed from fittings or boards, on which lighting structures can be fixed. For plants, LED lamps are more suitable.

If funds allow, it is possible to build additional heating for year-round crops. It can be a floor heating system or a solar collector, easily made by hand. The northern part of the structure is covered with a dark film, and the light does not penetrate into the greenhouse. In order for the heat from the collector to be uniform, fans are installed in underground greenhouses, from which pipes are laid to the beds.

In order to irrigate in buried greenhouses, a high-quality drainage system with ditches should be organized.

In order for enough light to penetrate into the do-it-yourself underground greenhouse and the polycarbonate is not damaged, in winter it is necessary to regularly clean the snow from the roof.

A correctly and qualitatively erected structure with your own hands will last a long time and will please you with a good harvest throughout the year.

Home Construction Simple winter greenhouse without special heating

Simple winter greenhouse without special heating

For many years I tested different greenhouses and came to the conclusion that they all have one, but a significant drawback - they require a large amount of fuel to heat them.

winter greenhouse without special heating I have been using for several years. I grow many types of crops and even subtropical and tropical plants in it.

We had to figure out how to get rid of these costs. I “shoveled” a mountain of literature, including old gardening textbooks, and came across an interesting fact. It turns out that in ancient times, greenhouses were made partially deepened into the ground. This resulted in significant fuel savings.

Taking on the principle"deepening", built his own greenhouse, which does not need to be heated (see picture). Heat comes from the earth and partly from the sun's rays. True, there is an indispensable condition: the depth must correspond to at least twice the value of the soil freezing index in a given area. Otherwise, you will not achieve the desired thermal regime.

dug out"pit" along the length from north to south, all the soil poured onto the western side. Actually, the length of the greenhouse can be any (I have it -10 meters). The side walls were well whitewashed with lime - this is both disinfection and an improvement in the light regime.

Overlapping made of bars and poles at a distance of 40 to 60 centimeters. The thickness of the bars and the distance between them was determined in such a way that they would hold the snow load. I chose a thicker film for the upper floor and fixed it with planks nailed to the bars. On the inside I attached another layer of film.

When severe frosts begin, somewhere at the end of December I stretch the third film layer. I cling to it at the top of the bars, and fix the lower ends below the freezing level of the soil.

In these conditions the unfrozen soil of the lower and side layers gives off its heat to the greenhouse. I don’t remove snow in severe frosts, only in some places I clean it off, I make “windows”. In early spring, I remove the “fur coat” completely.

This is how my greenhouse is set up in which I do not use an ounce of fuel. Even in the most severe frosts, when it is minus 32 outside, in the "winter house" under three layers of film the temperature does not drop below 0 degrees.

This is how I grow orange, tangerine, mimosa, roses, pomegranate, persimmon, tea, medlar, lavender and more. In spring and autumn, onions, parsley, and seedlings of garden crops grow well there. True, some "delicate" and tender plants have to pay a little more attention, to create a favorable regime of illumination and air humidity for them. But this is, as they say, trifles.

N. Tymush, Vinnytsia region

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Phased installation work and features of self-construction of an underground greenhouse

The underground greenhouse is known to few The underground greenhouse is known to few. Modern gardeners annually seek new methods and technologies that are different from traditional ones. Summer residents who live in cold climates are trying to use the most unusual approaches that help extend the growing season and reduce the cost of building materials and heating.

Features of the building

Buried greenhouses are among the best and most rational options in the field of capital greenhouse structures and are considered to be very promising. Such a greenhouse-dugout perfectly corresponds to the idea of thermal preservation, which, thanks to optimal depth indicators, is stable throughout the year.

The use of such a thermal factor when constructing a greenhouse in the ground contributes to huge savings in heating costs during the cold season. In addition, structures of this type compare favorably with structures of a similar purpose by their ease of construction with their own hands, ease of maintenance and a stable microclimate, which is most significant for the growth and fruiting of crops.

Most popular options

The most popular alternative for expensive and energy-intensive glass greenhouses is the underground greenhouse "Walipini", which came to us from the Indians inhabiting the cold mountainous regions of South America. The Walipini greenhouse facility uses natural resources to provide stable heat and quality lighting all year round.

The Walipini greenhouse facility uses natural resources to provide stable heat and quality lighting all year round.

The simplest type of greenhouse located in the ground is a rectangular recess, in which plastic or film is used as a covering. The insulated air space created under such a coating contributes to the formation of an ideal microclimate. Such buried greenhouses are quite easy to do with your own hands, and the sun's rays, penetrating deep into the greenhouse, have a positive effect on garden crops. Greenhouses buried in the ground consume much less energy compared to ground-based greenhouse structures. The most effective models are underground greenhouses with a length of six meters, equipped with plastic wrap and PVC pipes.

Main advantages

Greenhouses, buried to a sufficient depth, have some advantages, which makes them in demand not only among experienced summer residents, but also for beginners:

in winter, temperature indicators can be more than ten degrees, provided that there is no additional heating of the greenhouse space;
on hot summer days, most plants need coolness, which freely occurs in this type of greenhouse underground;
it is absolutely easy to make a construction with your own hands, and classic schemes and drawings for construction are more than available;
trench greenhouses are ideal for year-round cultivation of not only vegetables, but also many berry crops;
the low cost of construction is due to the ability to use an affordable and budget option for building and finishing materials.

The insulated airspace created under the coating of the film or transparent plastic contributes to the formation of an ideal microclimate. The sun's rays, penetrating deep into the greenhouse, favorably affect garden crops

It should be borne in mind that do-it-yourself underground greenhouses need proper arrangement of waterproofing and drainage systems, as well as ventilation.

Thermos greenhouse: recessed structure (video)

Necessary materials and tools

For the arrangement of a full-fledged greenhouse structure. which is a recessed structure, you should use a standard set of building materials and tools for performing this kind of work:

ready-mixed cement or cement;
when replacing the cement mixture with cement, sand should be used;
shovel and bayonet shovels;
a container or any convenient container for diluting the working solution;
construction trowel;
plaster mixture;
sheet foam;
standard thermoblocks;
sheet polycarbonate or high-quality polyethylene film;
film for thermal insulation works and construction tape;
protective impregnating composition for wood lumber;
galvanized nails and screws;
hammer and pliers;
wood frame paint.

It should be borne in mind that do-it-yourself underground greenhouses need proper arrangement of waterproofing and drainage systems, as well as ventilation

Installation steps

When performing a recessed greenhouse structure with your own hands, you should carefully take all measurements and carry out all work in accordance with the planned plan and completed drawings. The standard design is built in several successive stages.

Choosing a place for the location of the building and marking the dimensions according to the drawings and plan. The optimal parameters for the depth of the underground part are two meters, and the surface part can reach one meter. The width in the standard design cannot exceed five meters.
Digging a trench or pit in accordance with the markup, followed by pouring the foundation. To this end, the perimeter of the dug trench should be laid out in blocks, followed by pouring concrete or cement mixture.
Removal of the formwork, followed by the erection of the walls of the greenhouse structure with your own hands from a material with positive thermal insulation characteristics. The best option is the use of hollow polystyrene-based thermoblocks. All wall masonry should be reinforced with metal.
The process of wall insulation, in which block joints must be carefully coated with a high-quality waterproofing solution, and all cavities must be filled with special mounting foam.
To achieve the maximum insulating effect, a foil thermal insulation film is fastened to the inner wall side.

For the purpose of year-round heating, it is advisable to think over the installation of underfloor heating under the screed, as well as pay attention to the artificial lighting device in the greenhouse structure. At the final stage, the roof frame is built under the covering material.

Choosing a place for the location of the building and marking the dimensions according to the drawings and plan. The optimal parameters for the depth of the underground part are two meters, and the surface part can reach one meter. Width in standard design cannot exceed five meters

If the construction of the underground greenhouse is done correctly, then the built structure must have the following parameters and qualities:

the presence of a bucket shape like \__/;
a slight elevation of the northern wall above the southern one;
slope indicators - no more than forty degrees;
strong and heat-insulated walls;
the presence of high-quality drainage ditches;
reliable roofing.

Greenhouse without heating (video)

If all the above requirements are met, the durable construction of the greenhouse, made by oneself, will work on the principle of a thermos and delight the owners with a consistently high yield all year round.

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More information

As you know, the soil has the ability to maintain a constant temperature, for example, at an air temperature of about zero degrees, the soil temperature is about 10 degrees Celsius. Often this natural phenomenon is used in the construction of greenhouses, which are called earthen or buried. Next, we will consider what features earthen greenhouses have and how they are built.

Features of earthen greenhouses

Device

To take advantage of the warmth of the soil, it still needs to be buried below ground level. Of course, the soil temperature will not be enough to, for example, grow peppers or tomatoes in winter, however, it will be much easier to heat it with artificial devices.

Most sunken greenhouses are equipped with racks or shelves on which to grow crops to the point where they can receive the required amount of solar heat and light in the open field. At the same time, boxes for seedlings, potting soil and tools can be stored under these shelves.

The underground parts of the walls of such greenhouses can go deep into 1.5m, and aboveground - up to 1 meter in height, however, most often the walls are deepened to 0.9-1.2m, this allows the tops of the racks to reach the bottom of the cover.

Peculiarities

Compared to other types of greenhouses, construction will be quite expensive, as you will have to dig a foundation pit and build a concrete foundation for the walls that can withstand ground pressure. However, if the foundation is insulated, then heating costs will be significantly reduced in the future. It should also be borne in mind that a greenhouse deepened into the ground requires steps at the entrance, and these are also certain costs.

Recessed greenhouses require good drainage, so before you start building, you need to make sure that with the design you choose, you can build drainage without much effort. If electricity is brought into the greenhouse, then a bilge pump can be the solution, however, natural drainage will be much less expensive.

If the site where you are going to build a greenhouse has a slope from north to south, then you can make a semi-submersible structure. In this case, the rear wall of the greenhouse should be at ground level and consist of cast-in-place concrete or concrete blocks.

The front wall should be completely glass, thus the natural landscape will be used to protect and warm the plants. It is quite convenient to work in buried greenhouses, since you can stand at full height.

Construction of an in-depth greenhouse

Choosing a place to build a greenhouse

When choosing a location, there are three main points to consider:

Wind direction. If your area is dominated by gusty cold winds, then you need to take care of additional protection. This implies additional costs, but for that, you will save on heating. The role of additional protection can be performed by a fence.
Light. It is imperative that the greenhouse receives the maximum amount of light throughout the daylight hours. This will ensure efficient crop growth.
Availability for construction. If the greenhouse is built for long and constant operation, then convenient access to it is a must.

Note! An additional fence should not be too close to the greenhouse. If the height of the ridge is, for example, 2.5 m, then the distance between the greenhouse and the fence must be at least 8 m. This is due to the fact that the wind flow, which stumbles upon an obstacle, goes up and can cool the structure.

Construction of a gable earthen greenhouse

As an example, consider the building, as it is the most versatile and suitable for even the most severe climate. In such a greenhouse, you can grow not only garden crops, but also horticultural crops.

Of course, this example does not apply to the economy class, but in fact it is a very economical and convenient structure that can serve you for many years.

Such a greenhouse includes two rooms:

working area;
Greenhouse;
Tambour.

In the vestibule, you can place a heating boiler and a control unit that is responsible for watering, ventilation and lighting. The vestibule room must have a length of at least one and a half meters. It is desirable to cover its roof with an opaque material.

In the photo - a do-it-yourself brick duo-slope earthen greenhouse

In addition to the control unit, it is necessary to provide for a place in which inventory, earth mixtures and other necessary materials and items will be stored. The walls, as mentioned above, will be built of brick, and mineral wool can be used as a heat insulator.

Note! Soil sampling in the pit for the greenhouse should be done no higher than the freezing level of the soil. As a rule, it is 80-90 cm deep. This also applies to pouring the foundation.

The instruction looks like this:

First of all, a foundation pit of a certain size is dug and a strip foundation is made, which is poured 80 cm deep.
Then the walls are erected in one brick, respectively, the thickness of - 25 cm. The windows are mounted 60 cm above the level. For good natural light, the width between windows should be 2-3 bricks, i.e. up to 75 cm.
Next up is the roof. This project provides for a gable roof, which provides a natural and free flow of water. The angle of its inclination should be about 25 degrees.

Strapping bars are installed from below on roofing felt. The strapping and ridge timber should be fastened with rafters. For the roof, double glass is used with a minimum thickness of 3 mm; polycarbonate can also be used, the price of which is lower than glass.

Advice! To protect the walls, it is desirable to use a galvanized visor, which is installed with an indent from the wall plane by 8-10 cm.

Greenhouses in the land of such a plan can last at least fifteen years.

Advice! Greenhouse frames must be equipped with transoms. An alternative is supply air vents.

Construction of a shed earthen greenhouse

If the construction of the above construction is too expensive for you, then you can build a more budgetary version of the greenhouse. Its frame will be made of three rows of wooden racks.

The construction is carried out as follows:

First of all, a pit is dug.
Then the racks are installed. The length of the pillars located at the north wall should be 150 cm, the length of the middle row racks - 170 cm, the height near the south wall - 90 cm.
The extreme rows must be sheathed with slabs along the entire length of the racks. Racks of the middle row are sheathed with slabs only to the height of the ridge. Thus, a notch with a depth of 90 cm is performed. This notch should be filled with biofuel by 70 cm, and a layer of earth should be poured on top of 10-15 cm.
The walls on the north and south sides should be sprinkled with earth. The slope, which is directed to the south, must be covered with greenhouse frames.

Advice! To prevent heat loss through the roof, it is worth throwing mats on the glass at night - reed, straw, made of film or paper.

If good biofuel is used, then such a greenhouse can be operated starting from March, for example, growing lettuce, onions, Chinese cabbage, etc. there.

Conclusion

The main advantage of recessed greenhouses is the use of soil as a natural insulator. This allows you to significantly save on heating the greenhouse. As a result, such greenhouses are very popular among both amateur gardeners and professionals.

For more information on this topic, see the video in this article.

One of the best, rational methods in the construction of capital greenhouses is an underground thermos greenhouse. It implements the idea of using the natural energy of the earth for heating and keeping warm. After all, it is not a secret for anyone that at depth the average temperature changes little during the annual cycle. It remains almost constant there both in winter and in summer: fluctuations are only a few degrees. The use of this fact in the construction of a greenhouse gives tremendous savings in heating costs in the cold season, facilitates maintenance, and makes the microclimate more stable. Such a greenhouse works in the most severe frosts, bringing a good profit, allows you to produce vegetables, grow flowers all year round.

A properly equipped buried greenhouse makes it possible to grow, among other things, heat-loving southern crops. There are practically no restrictions. Citrus fruits and even pineapples can feel great in a greenhouse.

But in order for everything to function properly in practice, it is imperative to follow the time-tested technologies by which underground greenhouses were built. After all, this idea is not new, even under the tsar in Russia, buried greenhouses yielded pineapple crops, which enterprising merchants exported to Europe for sale.

For some reason, the construction of such greenhouses has not found wide distribution in our country, by and large, it is simply forgotten, although the design is ideal just for our climate. Probably, the need to dig a deep pit and pour the foundation played a role here. The construction of a buried greenhouse is quite expensive, it is far from a greenhouse covered with polyethylene, but the return on the greenhouse is much greater.

From deepening into the ground, the overall internal illumination is not lost, this may seem strange, but in some cases the light saturation is even higher than that of classic greenhouses. It is impossible not to mention the strength and reliability of the structure, it is incomparably stronger than usual, it is easier to tolerate hurricane gusts of wind, it resists hail well, and blockages of snow will not become a hindrance.

Construction stages

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1. Pit

The creation of a greenhouse begins with digging a foundation pit. To use the heat of the earth to heat the internal volume, the greenhouse must be sufficiently deepened. The deeper the earth gets warmer. The temperature almost does not change during the year at a distance of 2-2.5 meters from the surface. At a depth of 1 m, the soil temperature fluctuates more, but in winter its value remains positive, usually in the middle lane the temperature is 4-10 ° C, depending on the time of year.

A buried greenhouse is built in one season. That is, in winter it will already be able to function and generate income. Construction is not cheap, but by using ingenuity, compromise materials, it is possible to save literally an order of magnitude by making a kind of economy option for a greenhouse, starting with a foundation pit. For example, do without the involvement of construction equipment. Although the most time-consuming part of the work - digging a pit - is, of course, better to give to an excavator. Manually removing such a volume of land is difficult and time consuming.

The depth of the excavation pit should be at least two meters. At such a depth, the earth will begin to share its heat and work like a kind of thermos. If the depth is less, then in principle the idea will work, but noticeably less efficiently. Therefore, it is recommended that you spare no effort and money to deepen the future greenhouse.

Underground greenhouses can be any length, but it is better to keep the width within 5 meters, if the width is larger, then the quality characteristics for heating and light reflection deteriorate. On the sides of the horizon, underground greenhouses need to be oriented, like ordinary greenhouses and greenhouses, from east to west, that is, so that one of the sides faces south. In this position, the plants will receive the maximum amount of solar energy.

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2. Walls and roof

Along the perimeter of the pit, a foundation is poured or blocks are laid out. The foundation serves as the basis for the walls and frame of the structure. Walls are best made from materials with good thermal insulation characteristics, thermoblocks are an excellent option.

The roof frame is often made of wood, from bars impregnated with antiseptic agents. The roof structure is usually straight gable. A ridge beam is fixed in the center of the structure; for this, central supports are installed on the floor along the entire length of the greenhouse. The ridge beam and walls are connected by a row of rafters. The frame can be made without high supports. They are replaced with small ones that are placed on transverse beams connecting opposite sides of the greenhouse - this design makes the interior space freer.

As a roof covering, it is better to take cellular polycarbonate - a popular modern material. The distance between the rafters during construction is adjusted to the width of the polycarbonate sheets. It is convenient to work with the material. The coating is obtained with a small number of joints, since the sheets are produced in lengths of 12 m.

They are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws, it is better to choose them with a cap in the form of a washer. To avoid cracking the sheet, a hole of the appropriate diameter must be drilled under each self-tapping screw with a drill. With a screwdriver, or a conventional drill with a Phillips bit, glazing work moves very quickly. In order to avoid gaps, it is good to lay the rafters along the top with a sealant made of soft rubber or other suitable material in advance and only then screw the sheets. The peak of the roof along the ridge must be laid with soft insulation and pressed with some kind of corner: plastic, tin, or another suitable material.

For good thermal insulation, the roof is sometimes made with a double layer of polycarbonate. Although the transparency is reduced by about 10%, but this is covered by the excellent thermal insulation performance. It should be noted that the snow on such a roof does not melt. Therefore, the slope must be at a sufficient angle, at least 30 degrees, so that snow does not accumulate on the roof. Additionally, an electric vibrator is installed for shaking, it will save the roof in case snow still accumulates.

Double glazing is done in two ways:

A special profile is inserted between two sheets, the sheets are attached to the frame from above;
First, the bottom layer of glazing is attached to the frame from the inside, to the underside of the rafters. The roof is covered with the second layer, as usual, from above.

After completing the work, it is desirable to glue all the joints with tape. The finished roof looks very impressive: without unnecessary joints, smooth, without prominent parts.